Term
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Definition
| is a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments or material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving or intertwinning to form a textile fabric (ASTM, American Society of Textile Manufactures) |
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Term
| Yarns are classified & identified by: |
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Definition
1) FIber Length
2) Number of Parts in the Yarn
3) Direct & Amount of Yarn Twist
4) Yarn Size |
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Term
| Selection of yarn is based on end use |
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Definition
| Examples: Very high twist yarns are used to create texture in true crepe While very low twist yarns are used in fabrics that are to be napped such as flannel. |
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Term
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Definition
| made from short staple fibers that are twisted or bonded together with result In fuzzy yarn with protruding ends. Longer staple fibers create bretter quality and more costly spun yarns |
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Definition
| Made from long fibers that are grouped together or slightly twisted together. |
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Term
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Definition
Type of filament yarn:
With straight, alomost parallel fibers |
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Definition
Type of filament yarn:
Where they are uniformly bulky |
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Term
Whcih fiber length snags more easily
filament yarns or spun yarns |
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Definition
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Term
| What can simple yarns be classified by? |
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Definition
| The number of parts in the yarn |
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Definition
| Simplest type with one strand - made by the 1st twisting operation in the yarn spinning process |
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Term
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Definition
| Made by the 2nd twisting operation which combines 2 or more singles |
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Term
| In ply yarn what is each part of the yarn called? |
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Definition
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Term
| In ply yarn the twist is inserted by a machine called? |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| Most ply yarns are twisted in the opposite direction to the twist of the single form which they were made |
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Term
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Definition
1)Increases diameter of yarn
2)Increses the strength of yarn
3)Increases uniformity of yarn
4)Increases quality of yarn |
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Term
| Ply yarns are often used in what direction? |
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Definition
The Warp Direction
of woven fabrics to increase the fabric strength |
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Term
| Two-ply yarns are found in the best quality of what? |
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Definition
| Men's broadcloth (fine ply yarns) shirts |
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Term
| Ply yarns in general are often used in what? |
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Definition
| knits, furnishings, sweing thread, and string used to tie packages |
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Term
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Definition
| MAde by the 3rd twisting operation which twists ply yarns together |
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Term
| What are cord yarns seldom used in? |
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Definition
| Apparel or furnishing fabrics |
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Term
| What are cord yarns used in? |
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Definition
| Industrial weight fabrics such as duck and canvas. In addition, they are found in some types of sewing thread and some ropes |
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Term
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Definition
| The number of turns per ins (tpi) or turns per per meter (tmp) |
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Term
| What do twist do to fibers? |
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Definition
| It binds the fibers together and adds strength to the spin yarn. It can also change the apperance of the fabric |
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Term
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Definition
Refers to a direction of yarn twist that conforms to the slope direction of the central portion of the letter S.
The twist goes down from left to right |
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Term
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Definition
| Refers to a direction of yarn twist that conforms to the direction of the slope of the central portion of the Z letter. The twist goes up from left to right. Most common twist |
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Definition
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Definition
| Used to make nice lofty spun yarns, used in the filling yarns (flannel) fairly low twist. Finishing process too |
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Term
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Definition
| Usually 25 turns/inch; most commonly used & most durable. "standard warp twist" |
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Term
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Definition
| 35-40 turns/inch; hardness of a yarn, more compact. Hard to the touch |
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Term
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Definition
| 40-80 turns/inch; makes it lively & kinky |
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Term
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Definition
| Used to measure spun or staple yarns; inderect measurement system because the finer the yarn the larger the number. 4 is larger than 8 |
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Term
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Definition
Filamet yarn size; controlled by spinneret (size of spinneret holes) also rate dope is pumped through the spinneret. Direct system because the finer the yarn the smaller the number 4 is less than 8
Sheer: 20
Upholstery: 500 |
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Term
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Definition
Rest of the world uses this
Based on metric system
Not neen adopted by the U.S.
Measure filament & spun yarns |
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Term
| Why is yarn called "fancy" or "novelty" |
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Definition
| due to the interesting effects they add to the fabrics "complex" "specialty" |
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Term
| Facts about novelty yarns |
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Definition
1)Usually piled but genarally not used to add strength
2) If used in 1 direction only, usually in "filling" direction because they're under less stress
3)Add interest to plain weave fabrics at a lower coast than if the effect were obtained from variation in weave.
4) The durability depends on the size of the novelty affect as well as the firmness of the weave of the fabric. The smaller the novelty affect, the more durable the fabric
5) Quality & cost of fancy yarns vary |
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Term
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Definition
1)Ratine
2)Knot or spot
3)Loop or boucle
4) Metallic yarn (Brocade)
5)Chenille Yarn - Looks like caterpillars or pipe cleaners
6)Slub
7)Spiral or corkscrew |
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Term
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Definition
| A mixture of fibers of different composition length, diameter, or color spun togeher into a yarn. (20) Batiste |
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Term
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Definition
| A fabric that has yarn of 1 fiber content in the warp & yarn of a different fiber content in the filling. (31) Begaline |
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Term
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Definition
| A yarn that has 2 unlike fibers strands twisted together as a ply |
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Term
| Blends, mistures, & combinations contribute properties to fabrics that are not possible with ____ fibers |
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Definition
| Are not possible with just ONE fiber |
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Term
| Blending of fibers is done for several reasons |
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Definition
1) To produce fabrics with a better combo of performace characteristics in the product. MOST IMPORTANT
2) To improve spining, weaving, & to improve uniformity.
3) To obtain better texture, hand, or fabric appearance.
4) For economic reasons
5) To obtain cross dyed effects or to create new color effect |
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Term
| Most fibers are deficient in one or more important properties so... |
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Definition
| blending can improve them |
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Term
| Blending is a ________ & _________ process |
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Definition
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Term
| What makes it possible to buils in a combination of properties that are permanent? |
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Definition
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Term
| Composite Yarns are composed of both _________ and ____________. |
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Definition
| Staple-fibers and filament-fibers |
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Term
| Some examples of composite yarns are: |
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Definition
| Covered Yarns and Core spun yarns |
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Term
| Covered and core spun yarns: |
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Definition
Central ply or sheath and completely covered by other fibers
Wrapped with another fiber around them
(the way they're made is different) |
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Term
| Name the 7 steps of Processing staple fibers: Cotton System |
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Definition
Opening and Blending
Carding
Drawing
Combing
Roving
Spinning
Winding |
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Term
| What is Opening and Blending |
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Definition
| (cotton) come in huge bails and when it gets to the mill they loosen the bail |
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Term
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Definition
| Cleans and alligns the fibers; try to get parallel to eachother to spin yarns |
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Term
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Definition
| More effort to get the fibers more parallel (as done in the carding stage) |
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Term
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Definition
ONLY done for long staple fibers; gets more parallel; removes short fibers
(combed cotton=higher quality) |
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Term
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Definition
| Insters a slight twist in the fiber |
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Term
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Definition
| REduces fiber size more; twists and winds finished yarns onto bobbins |
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Term
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Definition
| Re-wind yarns to spools or cones |
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Term
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Definition
| Yarns made from carded sliver. Carded sliver of short wool fibers is made into woolen yarns and the fabrics are called woolen fabrics. WOOLEN (yarn typed) is NOT synonym for WOOL. |
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Term
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Definition
| Yarns made from combed sliver (already combed out). The short fibers combed out of wool are called noils. Combed sliver of long parallel fibers is made into worsted yarns |
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Term
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Definition
Used in wool suitings
longer quality yarns
wear better
harder surface |
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Term
| What are some carded yarn characteristics? |
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Definition
Have medium to low twist
more protruding ends
bulkier, softer, fuzzier
more sensitive to abrasion |
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Term
| What are some carded fabric characteristics? |
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Definition
Fabrics may become baggy in areas of stress
Fabris vary from soft to firm
Blankets are always carded
Wide range of end uses
Tend to be less expensive |
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Term
| What are some characteristics of combed yarns? |
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Definition
Medium to high twist
Fewer protruding eneds
Parallel fibers with a finer count (more fibers per square inch)
Longer wearing and stronger |
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Term
| What are some characteristics of combed fabrics? |
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Definition
Do not sag
smoother surface and lighter weight
these fabrics take and hold a press
tend to be more expensive
fabrics can range from sheer to suiting weight |
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Term
| Longer staple fibers include |
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Definition
| Worsted wool and combed cotton |
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Term
| Shorter staple fibers include: |
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Definition
| Woolen (wool) and Carded (cotton) (less expensive) |
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