Term
|
Definition
| treatments routinely applied to fabrics to prepare them for dyeing and finishing |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| remove: natural oils & waxes, fiber impurities and color, manmade additives |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
1. Desizing
2. Scouring
3. Bleaching
4. Mercerizing
5. Singeing
6. Calendering |
|
|
Term
| Which preparation is not required for knits? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| What chemical is usually used for bleaching? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| strength, luster, dyeability (absorbency) |
|
|
Term
| main reason for mercerizing? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| the process of applying color to fibers, yarns fabrics or garments |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| who invented synthetic dyes |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| less expensive, more readily available and more uniform |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| manufactured fibers are _____ dyed |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Wool is often _____ dyed. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Tweed has to be _____ dyed. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Advantage of fiber/stock dyeing? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Disadvantages of fiber/stock dyeing? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Fiber/stock dyeing process |
|
Definition
| loose fibers are collected in a pressure cooker machine and the dye is circulated |
|
|
Term
| How to identify fiber/stock dyeing? |
|
Definition
| unravel a yarn - and look to see if there are different colors of fibers in the yarn |
|
|
Term
| Stock dyeing refers to... |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Stripes and plaid are _____ dyed. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| package dyeing refers to... |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| 2 methods for yarn/package dyeing |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| dyeing a cone of yarn vs yarns dropped in vat, dye circulates throughout yarn |
|
|
Term
| how to identify package/yarn dyeing |
|
Definition
| unravel and look for different colored yarns (as opposed to fibers) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| yarn/package (alternates rows of yarn - dyed yarn in warp and filling direction) |
|
|
Term
| piece dyeing refers to... |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| most common form of dyeing |
|
Definition
| fabric/piece dyeing (fast and economical) |
|
|
Term
| how to identify fabric/piece dyeing |
|
Definition
| fabric will be the same color on the front and the back |
|
|
Term
| methods of fabric/piece dyeing |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| batch fabric/piece dyeing |
|
Definition
| all steps done in a single vessel |
|
|
Term
| fabric/piece dyeing steps |
|
Definition
| dye application, fixations and rinsing |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
beam - roll of fabric lowered into dye batch, dye circulates from inside out, fixation + drying at same time
jet - jet of dye forces fabric through machine and color comes in contact with fabric |
|
|
Term
| which is more common beam or jet? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| continuous piece/fabric dyeing |
|
Definition
| separates individuals steps into separate components of a continuous dyeing range |
|
|
Term
| Hosiery and t-shirts are typically __ dyed. |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| Why did garment dyeing come about? |
|
Definition
| quick response to fashion change (shorter lead time) |
|
|
Term
| how to identify garment dyeing |
|
Definition
| look at the labels, they will be partially dyed |
|
|
Term
| Two ways of dyeing blends |
|
Definition
| cross dyeing and union dyeing |
|
|
Term
| which is more common, cross or union dyeing |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| when different fiber types in a blend are dyed different colors |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| when different fiber types in a blend are dyed the same color |
|
|
Term
| Two dyeing considerations |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| a level dyeing produces the ame shade on the entire batch of material |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| the ability of a dyed textile to retain its shade and depth of shade during use and care |
|
|
Term
| fastness is determined in respect to... |
|
Definition
| light, laundering, dry cleaning, bleach, perspiration... |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| application of mechanical or chemical treatment to fabrics to enhance their appearance or performance |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| application of color to certain portions of a textile product creating a design; primarily done for fabrics (and garments) |
|
|
Term
| Most common commercial method of printing |
|
Definition
| Screen printing (primarily rotary) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| flat bed printing process |
|
Definition
| screen is prepared using photographic resist process, one screen for each color, fabric moves along table from one screen to the next, like a stencil |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| screens prepared, shaped into cylinder (one for each color) fabric runs under a series of rotating screens, dye applied to rotary screens from inside cylinder - forced through screen with squeegee |
|
|
Term
| when the screens are out of sync and the pattern components won't line up correctly its called ___ |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| separate screen provides background color to design (type of screen printing) |
|
|
Term
| when a fabric is piece dyed and then printed over its called ________ |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| thickened bleach is printed onto previously dyed fabric and the color is discharged (removed) wherever the bleach is applied |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| design printed onto paper, using dyes instead of pigment, printed paper and white fabric run together through heated ovens, dyes vaporize and transfer to the fabric |
|
|
Term
| which printing process is very detailed, almost like a photograph |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| which type of printing is also called paper printing |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| no screens required, quick responses, short yardages, expensive ink, few color choices, slower than rotary, new method |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| printing warp yarns before the fabric is woven, the designs have indistinct outlines |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| developed in JAVA, wax is used as the resist material |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| probably developed in India, tied strings or rubber bands are used as resist materials |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| direct printing, like a stamp, design carved into a block, area between design elements cut away leaving design elevated, dipped into dye then pressed onto fabric |
|
|
Term
| classification of finishes |
|
Definition
| mechanical versus chemical; durable versus nondurable |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| fabrics are passed between 2+ rollers (often made of stainless steel and heated) |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| like ironing, removes wrinkles; damp fabric goes under rollers and comes out pressed |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| engraved rollers (250 diagonal lines per inch) provide surface luster and soft hand |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| calendering process, start applied to fabric, high speed friction calender provides polished surface, spinning while fabric moves underneath |
|
|
Term
| Chintz is made with which calendering process? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| resin applied to fabric, polished to a high gloss wet look or patent leather look |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| one engraved roller with raised pattern is used with a second soft roller, pattern is pressed into fabric |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| 2 unbalanced plain weave fabrics are pressed together, crushing the ribs; water marker or wood grain look |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| Napping, Sanding and Shearing |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| small bent wires on rollers pull fibers from yarns to produce a dense pile on fabric surface |
|
|
Term
| Sanding/Sueding/Buffing/Peachskin |
|
Definition
| Sandpaper covered rolls = shorter pile |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| follows napping, produces uniform and level pile |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| acid printed onto cellulosic fabric causes open areas and design effects |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| cotton printed with NaOH causing fabric to shrink in printed areas and pucker in unprinted areas |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| shrinkage control, fabric overfed into a cylinder between two blankets and steamed to accelerate shrinkage |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| finish that minimize felting by either damaging/dissolving the scales or coating the scales with resin |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| thermoplastic fabrics will hold their new dimension unless exposed to a higher temperature (nylon, olefin, polyester) |
|
|
Term
| Chemical application forms |
|
Definition
| 1) pad-dry cure and 2) foam |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| unfinished roll of fabric goes into a chemical/pad bath, is saturated picking up water and chemical finishes, squeeze rollers squeeze out excess liquid nad then into a oven to fix the finish |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| a knife pushes the foam onto the fabric which goes through rollers that press the foam into the fabric and the put in a curing oven where the chemicals are fixed |
|
|
Term
| Advantages of foam application |
|
Definition
| don't have to get fabric soaking wet, uses less water, easier curing and drying, less energy required, different finishes for front + back if desired |
|
|
Term
| Wrinkle Resistant is also called... |
|
Definition
| Durable Press, Wash and Wear, or Wrinkle free |
|
|
Term
| Benefits of wrinkle resistant |
|
Definition
| decreases wrinkles, minimizes care (less ironing) and decreases shrinkage |
|
|
Term
| Wrinkle Resistant Disadvantages |
|
Definition
| decrease strength & abrasion, more expensive, attracts oily soil, requires formaldehyde |
|
|
Term
| Soil Resistant vs. Soil Release |
|
Definition
resistant - prevents wetting, water beads up, all fibers, applied by manufacturer or consumer
release - increases absorbency, water soaks in, manmade only, manufacturer application only |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| how are waterproof finishes achieved? |
|
Definition
| with polyurethane or file coating to the surface |
|
|
Term
| what finish is often used on high count fabrics? |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| differences between water-proof and water repellent |
|
Definition
| waterproof is nonbreathable, and there is no water penetration... water repellent only resists penetration but is pliable, breathable and light weight |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| capillary action in a fabric carries moisture away form the skin |
|
|
Term
| how is moisture management achieved? |
|
Definition
| changes the chemical composition of a fabric - gives it a slight negative charge so the fabric pulls away from the skin |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| CPSC - Consumer Product Safety commission |
|
|
Term
| what does the FFA apply to |
|
Definition
| all apparel, children's sleepwear, mattresses, carpets + rugs |
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| forbids the sale of any dangerously flammable textiles |
|
|
Term
| how does FR finishes work? |
|
Definition
| they break the burning cycle by: - decreasing formation of flammable gases or producing inert gases that dilute the gases fueling the fire |
|
|
Term
| FR finishes are adversely affected by: |
|
Definition
| laundering (bleach, softeners, hot water/dryer, soap- use detergent) and overexposure to sunlight and soil |
|
|
Term
| how do microencapsulated finishes work? |
|
Definition
| incorporates materials in tiny capsule form that are sprayed on and held with a binder, the use ruptures the capsules |
|
|
Term
| Examples of microencapsulated finishes |
|
Definition
| fragrance, lotions, oils, antimicrobial, antiodor, insect repellent |
|
|
Term
| enzyme technology is used for |
|
Definition
| desizing and scouring, retting flax, degumming silk, biopolishing and detergents + presoaks |
|
|
Term
| what are the environmental benefits of enzyme technology |
|
Definition
| works in mild conditions (temp and pH), replaces toxic/harsh chemicals, 100% biodegradable, small doses required |
|
|
Term
| Nanotechnology finish examples |
|
Definition
| improves water or stain resistance, moisture management, wrinkle resistant, antimicrobial (odor + mildew), colorfastness, reduce pilling and improve strength |
|
|
Term
| example of Nanotechnology trade name |
|
Definition
| Nanotex - reduces pilling |
|
|
Term
| Examples of special purpose finishes |
|
Definition
| antistatic durable, antimicrobial, light reflectant, UV absorption, phase change, heat reflective, moth proofing |
|
|
Term
| examples of products with antimicrobial finishes |
|
Definition
| medical textiles, wipes + towels, workout clothes, outdoor textiles, carpets, mops, filters |
|
|
Term
| trade name example of light reflective |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
|
Definition
| fiber damage, dye fading and skin exposure |
|
|
Term
| trade name example of UV absorption |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| UPF good, very good and excellent |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| cotton t-shirt, blue jeans and polyester shirt UPF's |
|
Definition
|
|
Term
| What do phase change finishes do? |
|
Definition
| minimize heat flow through a fabric, absorbs or releases heat as they undergo phase change |
|
|
Term
| tradename example of phase change thermal finish |
|
Definition
| Underfire - used in long underwear |
|
|
