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Definition
| Any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high length-to-width ratio and with suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric. |
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| Any natural or manufactured fiber produced in or cut to a short length measured in inches or centimeters. (ex. cotton fibers) |
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| Refers to fibers that are extremely long (measured in miles / km) or yarns made of these fibers (ex. nylon) Silk is the only natural filament fiber |
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| Simplest weave structure, in which two sets of yarns at right angles to each other pass alternately over and under each other to form the maximum number of interlacings. |
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| Is a weave in which each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left forming a distinct diagonal or wale. |
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| A weave in which each warp or filling yarn floats across four or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or to the left |
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| A hand embroidery technique from Kashmir in which fine, loosely twisted two ply yarn is chain stitched on cotton cloth. Imperfections, color irregularities, natural black specks, dye marks, and dirt spots are characteristics which label is a genuine. These fabrics are hand woven by natives in India and the beauty of the cloth is in its natural homespun appearance. |
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| A two or three dimensional aspect in which fibers or yarns twist or bend back and forth or around their axis |
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| Natural fibers derived from animal protein such as wool, silk and hair. |
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| Natural protein fiber produced from the cocoon of wild and cultivated silkworms. |
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| Fibers that grow on the sheep fleece. Varieties include: Alpaca, Angora, Botany, Cashmer, Merino & Shetland |
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| A system of weaving which because of a pattern making mechanism and ability ot handle threads individually and independantly of each other can produce complicated curvilinear woven designs of considerable size. examples are brocade, brocatelle, damask, lampas, lisere, matelasse, and tapespry. |
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| Organic fibrous substance found in all vegetation that is the basic consituent of both natural and manmade cellulosic fibers such as cotton, linen, jute & rayon. |
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| A natural cellulosic seed-hair fiber, obtained from the seed pod of the cotton plant. |
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| Strong lustrous yarn / fabric made from flax fiber |
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| Irregular crosswise joint like markings present in many bast fibers. |
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| An airy honeycombed core present in some wool fibers |
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| Main part of wool fibers; it contains two cell types |
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| Ribbon-like twists along a cotton fiber |
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| Horny, non-fibrous layer on the exterior of wool fibers |
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| General term denoting the relative durability of dye or pigment coloration to exposure to light, pollutants, or crocking and to laundering and cleaning. |
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| Also known as compression resiliency, the ability to spring back to original thickness after being compressed. |
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| Refers to the ability of fibers to cling together, especially important in yarn spinning. |
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| The manner in which a fabric falls or hangs over a three dimensional form, effected by fiber size and stiffness |
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| The percentage of moisture a bone-dry fiber will absorb from the air under standard conditions of temperature and moisture. Also know as moisture regain. |
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| A chemical that destroys the color compounds on fabrics. Used to destroy fabric stains and yellowing. |
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| Group of yarns threaded through the loom in a woven fabric; parallel to the selvage. |
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| Often referred to as filling yarns, it is the yarn that traverses the warp yarns (horizontally) during the weaving process. They do not have to be as strong as the warp yarns and are often more decorative or textural. |
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Definition
| Sample of fabric that provides some information regarding the type, weight, pattern, and color. Smaller than a memo sample. |
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| Fiber produced by the Bactrain a two- humped animal |
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| Animal fibers from the goat, rabbit and camel families that include: Mohair, Qiviut, Angora, Camel's Hair, Cashmere, Llama, Alpaca, Vicuna, Guanaco, & Yak. |
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| Customer will provide the material for a project as opposed to fabrics offered by the manufacturer of an item. |
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| A bast fiber obtained from the round or long pod plant grown in Pakistan and India. |
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| Fiber obtained from the fibrous mass between the outer shell and the husk of the coconut |
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| Leaf fiber from Africa and Central America. Used alone or in blends for upholstery, carpeting and wallcoverings. Is heavy duty and paintable. |
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| Bast fiber often referred to as Linen |
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| The property of a fabric whereby burning is prevented, terminated, or inhibited following application of an ignition source |
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| Tightly woven, medium to heavy weight, steep to regular angle twill weave fabric with a pronounced wale, typically wool, wool blend, or synthetic to resemble wool. |
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| A silk or metallic yarn spiral wrapped closely around an inner core to cover it completely. also, a narrow braid used to cover tacks or staples in upholstery. |
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| The way a fiber feels to the sense of touch |
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| A broad classification for lustrous, plain weave fabrics made of ramie, flax, hemp, nettle, fiber grass etc. Generally loosely woven on hand looms in the Orient and adhered to paper grounds. |
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| A general term for a polished finish on a cloth, often using waxes or resins and hot rollers. |
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| Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state after they've been woven and before dyeing or finishing. |
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| Long lustrous hair obtained from the mane or tail. Used extensively during the 19th century in upholstery. Used today in upholstery restoration. |
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| A resist form of fabric decoration applied to the weft, the warp or both developed in Northeastern Asia. |
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| Originally a leading cotton producer now know typically for more inferior shorter staple cotton varieties. |
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| A pileless tapestry-woven carpet, mat or spread. |
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Definition
| Fabric created by bonding two or more layers of material together. |
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| Strong lustrous yarn made from flax fiber |
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| Jacquard fabric in which the warp threads of a second beam are usually used to float on top of the cloth to create the design |
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Definition
| An English test used by the Wool Bureau for testing abrasion resistance. |
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Definition
| Woven similar to a brocatelle having two warps which in weaving achieves a puckered or quilted effect. |
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Definition
| A process in which natural or synthetic fibers are set in wavy coils for resilience, wrinkle resistance and natural cohesion in finishing. |
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Definition
| The rubbing off of excess dyestuff from dry or wet fabric. |
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Definition
| A fabric ordered to specific measurement as opposed to purchasing by the piece (a whole bolt). |
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| A fabric or carpet in which the pile is cut rather than looped creating a velvet effect. |
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Definition
| Originally a silk fabric with a woven floral design made in China and introduced to Europe through Damascus from which its name is derived. Woven with a single warp and with one or two weft colors. Two color damasks can be reversed. Single damasks woven with a five harness satin weave. True/Double or Reversed damasks are woven with an eight-harness satin weave and have a firm hand. |
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Definition
| A sheer cloth with a spaced pattern. Produced by a dense area of supplementary weft in a swivel weave which creates raised dots. |
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| A compound cloth based on two sets of each warp and weft held together at regular intervals by a warp or weft thread passing from one fabric to the other. |
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| A reversible fabric usually one with a set of warp yarns and two sets of weft yarns one for each face. |
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Definition
| A fabric whose fiber content or topical finish makes it difficult to ignite and slow to burn. |
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Definition
| A manmade fabric whose fiber content is officially acceptable for most fire code requirements. |
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Definition
| A woolen fabric whose surface is slightly napped in finish. |
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Definition
| The portion of a warp or weft yarn that rides over two or more opposing yarns to form a sleek face as in satin, or is grouped to form a pattern on the face as in a brocade. |
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Definition
| The protein found in animal fibers |
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Definition
| The protein found in silk |
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Definition
| Animal fibers including wool, specialty wools, hair and furs, and silk. They have common properties because of their similar chemical composition. They absorb moisture without feeling wet(hydrogscopic)and are comfortable to wear, they minimize sudden temperature changes. |
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Definition
| A water-soluble protective gum that coats silk fibers and solidifies when it comes in contact with air. |
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Definition
| A fiberweb fabric of at least 70% wool made by interlocking the scales of the wool fibers through the use of heat, moisture or agitation. |
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Definition
| The hair fiber produced from the cashmere goat. |
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Definition
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Term
COLORFASTNESS (WET & DRY CROCKING) CODE
CLASS 5 = NO COLOR TRANSFER
CLASS 1 = HIGH DEGREE OF COLOR TRANSFER |
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Definition
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Term
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT (CODE)
CLASS 5 = NO FADING
CLASS 1 = HIGH DEGREE OF FADING |
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Definition
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Term
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES: PILLING, BREAKAGE, SEAM SLIPPAGE CODE
PILLING:
CLASS 5 = NO PILLING
CLASS 1 = SEVERE PILLING
BREAKAGE:
50# = UPHOLSTERY
35# = PANEL & VERTICAL SURFACE
15# = DRAPERY
SEAM SLIPPAGE:
25#=UPHOLSTERY, PANEL & VERTICAL S |
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Definition
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Term
| ABRASION - GENERAL CONTRACT UPHOLSTERY CODE |
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Definition
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| ABRASION - HEAVY DUTY UPHOLSTERY CODE |
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Definition
Abrasion Test
Sample pulled taut and abraded with cotton duck using a Back and forth abrasion method (Warp /Weft)
15,000 double rubs = General contract
30,000 double rubs = Heavy duty |
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Definition
Abrasion Test
Sample mounted flat and abraded with worsted wool using a figure eight method.
20,000 double rubs = General Contract
40,000 double rubs = Heavy Duty |
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Definition
| A variation of plain weave in which two or more warp ends and an equal number of weft picks are woven as one creating a woven basket effect |
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| CELLULOSIC FIBER PROPERTIES |
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Definition
Good Absorbancy - comfortable
Good Conductor of heat - withstand high temps
Low Resiliency - wrinkle easily
Lack loft - easily compacted yarns offer high thread counts
Good conductor of electricity - no static
Heavy fibers - heavier than other fibers
Harmed by mineral acids, minimal damage from organic acids.
Subject to mildew & moths - store dry
Flammable
Moderate sunlight resistance |
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| PROPERTIES OF PROTEIN FIBERS |
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Definition
Resiliency - resists wrinkles, maintain shape
Hygroscopic - comfortable in cool damp climate
Weaker when wet - loose strength when wet
Lighter weight by volume than other fibers
Harmed by bleach
Yellows in sunlight
Dry heat causes fibers to be brittle and harsh
Flame resistant |
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Term
| BURN TEST FINDINGS OF CELLULOSIC FIBERS |
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Definition
When approaching the flame they do not shrink or fuse.
When in the flame they burn and produce a light gray smoke
After removed they continue to burn and an orange afterglow is visible
The ash is gray and feathery with a smooth edge.
The odor produced is that of burning leaves or paper. |
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Term
| BURN TEST FINDINGS OF PROTEIN FIBERS |
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Definition
When approaching the flame they curl away
When in the flame they burn slowly
After removed they may self extinguish
The ash is a crushable black ash
The odor produced is that of burning hair |
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Term
BURN TEST FINDINGS OF SYNTHETIC FIBERS
(typical results not indicative of all) |
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Definition
When approaching the flame they melt and pull away
When in the flame they melt and burn
When removed may continue to melt or self-extinguish
The ash is a hard black bead that may or may not be brittle
The Odor is usually a chemical one |
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