Term
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Definition
A set of characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for resource and production decisions
Reflect quality levels and quality characteristics that are important to a firm's target customers and incorporate a firm's need to make a profit"
(Don't add much more than the customer needs because it's going to cost money) |
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| Standards are used to guide: |
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Definition
Product development
Selection of Materials
Production Methods
Finishing Techniques |
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Term
| Standards are then used to make __________ for each style in a line. |
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Definition
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Definition
Made an house or in own facility
Able to make your own decisions
Able to discuss details in garments with costing people |
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Definition
Contracted out
Have to make sure they make it the way you want
Worry about consistency when you're not doing it yourself |
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Definition
Materials
Procedures
Dimensions
Performance for a particular style |
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Definition
The basis of contracts between suppliers and buyers which determine the acceptability of materials and finished goods
Conscientious attention to specs results in products that consistently meet a firm's quality standards |
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| Sources of Product Standards |
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Definition
Company
Industry
National
International
International: compliance to some standards is mandatory while others are voluntary
US has mandatory standards for fiber content and care labeling as well as for safety regulations for some textile and apparel products |
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Term
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Definition
Textile and Apparel Industry is so global that international standards are increasingly more important to be able to do business
U.S. does not conform to the metric system so that sometimes causes problems at the international level |
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Term
| International Organization for Standardization (ISO) |
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Definition
Comprised of teams from 91 countries who have developed a set of standards for quality systems, ISO 9000, that is required for quality certification
These standards represent the only official world wide quality registration procedure |
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Term
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Definition
The standards allow manufacturers to build and document an approved quality system that will allow them to be competitive at the highest level internationally
Certification is not required by law but in order to be competitive, it is at the very least, "desirable."
Benefits of participation include
-marketing opportunities
-reduction of costs
-increased profitability
Implementation requires a commitment of time, expertise, and money |
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Term
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Definition
Used to provide consistency
Indicate how much testing of materials and prototypes are done
Some companies have huge laboratories that can test textiles of:
-Color fastness
-Pilling
-Dry Cleaning
-Fit models (wear and tear)
May make a difference in details like color matched threads and buttons |
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Definition
Represents a firm's standards for sizing and fit
Pattern pieces that form the simplest garment possible |
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Definition
Based on the firm's size standards, dictate precise increases or decreases at specific points on the garment
If you go up a size or down a size, you have to follow the grade rules
Have been improved incredibly with the use of computers (arm size and necklines)
Both grade rules and basic blocks contribute to consistency |
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Term
| Two government and trade supported organizations that have developed voluntary performance standards are...? |
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Definition
ASTM- American Society for Testing and Materials
-Worlds largest source of voluntary standards (for thousands of different product types)
AATCC- American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
-Huge international organization
-Chemists from all over the worlds
-They want it to be unbiased
-Independence |
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Term
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Definition
| How specific specs are varies from firm to firm... depends on their commitment to quality and consistency |
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Term
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Definition
Use generic term and only identify general properties needed
'Would you get me some cereal"
More flexibility in buying materials |
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Term
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Definition
Limits the product to a specific brand or vendor
Note specs for polyester batting on page 107 |
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Term
Are these open or closed specs?
Batting
Polyester batting
Bonded Polyester batting
Bonded polyester batting, 6 oz.
Hollofil Polyester batting, 6 oz. |
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Definition
Batting- OPEN
Polyester batting- OPEN
Bonded Polyester batting- OPEN
Bonded polyester batting, 6 oz.- OPEN
Hollofil Polyester batting, 6 oz.- CLOSED |
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Term
| Specifications are developed in what 3 phases? |
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Definition
Design Specs
Style Specs
Engineering Specs |
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Term
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Definition
Developed during the pre-adoption phase of product development
Provide guidelines for the first pattern maker and sample sewer |
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Term
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Definition
Detailed description of a style as developed in the post-adoption phase of product development
Includes:
Quality Specifications
Market Specifications (how you get patterned pieces positioned so you have the least amount of waste)
Packaging Specifications |
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Term
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Definition
Detail production planning by describing equipment, work station layout, production standards, handling requirements and acceptable quality levels
What equipment is required
How lay out work stations
How will it be passed on to the next operator?
Does fabric require proper handling?
What level of quality does target customer expect? (price level)
Specs may be written by designers, pattern makers, quality managers, sourcing specialists, and engineers... depends on the size of the firm
Specs must be precise, accurate and understandable
Keep in mind that specs establish minimum requirements and allow variance for acceptability
A specified value should reflect the minimum acceptable level considering the allowed tolerance |
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Term
| Specs must be ________, _________, and ______________. |
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Definition
Precice, accurate, and understandable
Translations to other languages can sometimes be confusing
A sample garment (visual) plus written specs have proven to get the best results |
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Term
| Keep in mind that specs establish __________ ___________ and ________ ________ for acceptability |
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Definition
MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS and ALLOW VARIANCE
Costs and product performance have an impact on determining minimum requirements |
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Term
| A specified value should reflect the minimum acceptable level considering the allowed ____________. |
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Definition
Tolerance
If the specified value exceeds the lowest acceptable level or if the specs are not necessary, the produce is OVER SPECIFIED |
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Term
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Definition
When the specified value exceeds the lowest acceptable level or if the specs are not necessary
Ex. Specifying 200 count fabric when 100 count is adequate--- this causes the cost of the garment to increase |
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Term
| What do quality control people use specs of minimums to do? |
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Definition
Quality control people use specs of minimums to determine whether a product meets specified criteria
If a product doesn't meet the minimum specified, it is unacceptable and would be classified as SECOND QUALITY or a REJECT |
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Term
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Definition
Allow variation from the specified value in the specifications
Ex. a spec for 60 in. fabric with a tolerance of "+0.5 in" would mean that the fabric could vary from 59.5 to 60.5 inches wide
Tolerances are means of loosening restrictions but should not go beyond what is acceptable for FIRST QUALITY |
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Term
| The more specific the specs, the less variation is allowed and the more _____________ there will be in the finished products |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
Means ZERO TOLERANCES
The more rigid the tolerance is the more costly the materials and processes |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
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Term
| As quality standards are increased, _________ are reduced, which produces more consistent products |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| Method of determining whether to accept or reject products based on a system of inspecting a representative sample of fabrics, components, operations or finished garments.. could be 100% inspection or random |
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Term
| Where is glove manufacturing mostly done? |
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Definition
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Term
| Gloves are made on an ___________ ______. |
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Definition
Assembly Line
Requires a lot more skill |
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Term
| Where have gloves been historically found? |
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Definition
pyramids
movie stars
Word as an accessory in the 60's
Died as a fashion accessory in the Youth Movement |
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Term
| What did the glove industry do to survive? |
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Definition
Simplified sizing so they didn't have so much depth in inventory
Tried to diversify into specializations
-Higher tech
-Sports
-Skiing
-Etc. |
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Term
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Definition
| General outline that forms the palm, the back and the finger |
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Term
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Definition
| Side pieces of the glove fingers |
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Term
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Definition
| Small, triangular sections at the base of some fourchettes. They allow for more flexibility between the fingers. Gloves and quirks are an indication of quality workmanship |
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Term
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Definition
Way of measuring lengths in women's gloves
"Four button gloves"
Each "button" represents 1 inch of length from base of the thumb to edge of the arm
Most popular is the 2 button glove
16 button gloves are between your elbow and shoulder |
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Term
| What are some different kinds of linings used in gloves? |
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Definition
Silk- Dressy/ NOT bulky
Rabbit Fur- Adds bulk but is warm
Cashmere- little bulk, but still slimming and warming |
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Term
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Definition
Refers to both a product and a process
Design as a "product" is a specific or unique version of a style
Design as a "process" is the creation of styles for the firm's product line that will meet needs of target market and produce a profit
Design is usually part of the merchandising division of the firm |
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Term
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Definition
Design as a "product is a specific or unique version of a style
a new version of a style is called a design until it is adopted for the line
After the design is assigned a style number in the line, it is usually called a style or a style number |
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Term
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Definition
| Design as a "process" is the creation of styles for the firm's product line that will meet needs of target market and produce a profit |
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Term
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Definition
Pre-adoption product development
Anything that designers are putting together |
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Term
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Definition
Mainly post-adoption product development
Involves perfecting a design into a style (makes it producible at a quality level that target market would like)
Perfecting style, fit, patterns, detailed specs |
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Term
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Definition
How a garment conforms to or differs from a body
Brand loyalty is sometimes based on fit |
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Term
| Balance as it relates to fit |
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Definition
| Balance of a garment is it's physical equilibrium on the body (affects appearance and comfort) |
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Term
| Fulcrum as it relates to fit |
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Definition
Point of balance between the front and back is usually the shoulder area
Placement of the shoulder seam determines where the front of the garment begins to fall forward and the back of the garment falls over the back of the body |
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Term
| Center of gravity as it relates to fit |
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Definition
Varies with body type and posture
If the garment is properly balanced on the body, the side seams will hang perpendicular to the floor |
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Term
| Ease as it relates to fit |
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Definition
Difference between garment measurement and body measurement
Comfort ease and design ease |
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Term
| Comfort Ease (Wearing Ease) |
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Definition
Allows for body flexing and movement; depends on manufacturers' size standards
Negative comfort ease- stretch fabrics (36in bust measurement vs. 30in. bust design)
Trench coat- have to think about layering (36in bust measurement vs. coat 44-46 in bust design)
-Raglan sleeve on coat is easier to layer than a fitted sleeve |
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Term
| Design Ease (Styling Ease) |
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Definition
In addition to comfort ease, design ease includes whatever is built into a style to provide the look the designer wants
Structural features such as pleats, gathers, or oversized garments are examples of ease created by styling |
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Term
| Pattern Making Technology: Basic block/sloper/master pattern |
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Definition
A set of pattern pieces, which when sewn together, form the simplest garment of a particular type
Provides a firm's standard fit for the target customer's size and shape (provides consistency)
Each product category (shirts, pants skirts, dresses, jackets) would be represented
Basic block would have all major parts of a a garment and includes comfort ease but not seam allowances and are often sample size |
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Term
| Pattern Making Technology: Style Blocks |
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Definition
Created from the basic block but include both comfort and design (Styling) ease
In a style block, it is the design ease that changes or modifies the visual effect
An example would be taking a basic block for a sleeve and transforming it into other styles of sleeves |
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Term
| Pattern Making Technology: Patterns |
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Definition
Can be made by designers or by pattern makers
2-D templates or guides for cutting fabric
A first pattern |
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Term
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Definition
Is a styled block created from a designer's sketch, draft, or drape and specifications
It is subject to many modifications in order to perfect the design for fit, silhouette or cost
A design prototype or sample is made from the first pattern to analyze design and fit |
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Term
| Design Prototype or Sample |
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Definition
Made from the first pattern to analyze design and fit
Remember that sample making is expensive and time consuming, but necessary! The investment made in sample making depends on the firm's commitment to consistency of fit and quality of design
Designs may be sampled four or five times during design development
Muslin is sometimes used to cut expenses (use of muslin could limit design possibilities
A final design sample is often made for presentation of the line for adoption |
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Term
| Additional Samples may be produced for: |
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Definition
Sales Samples
Photo/Catalog Samples
Style Samples
Production Samples |
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Term
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Definition
Made up for sales
Used at Market
have to have samples to show buyers from the retail stores |
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Term
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Definition
| Based on perfected production patterns |
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Term
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Definition
Made by contractor or whoever's making it
If we're contracting with a factory, we'd ask them to make production samples
Especially done if using a new factory to make sure they're up to your standards
Used for quality control |
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Term
| When are accurate production patterns made? |
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Definition
After a design has been accepted into a line and styling and fit have been perfected
Hem widths and seam allowances are added (adjoining seams and marking are verified so all parts are aligned and seams are of proper length)
Production patterns are then graded into all sizes produced by the company |
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Term
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Definition
Increasing and Decreasing the dimensions of each pattern according to firm's grade rules
Graded patterns are used to make markers which are diagrams of pattern pieces so fabric utilization is maximized |
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Term
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Definition
One of the 1st decisions made in the development of a line
Fabric accounts for up to 1/2 of total production costs of a garment and can be higher if poor decisions are made
Sourcing of fabrics is done domestically and internationally |
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Term
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Definition
Day long meetings
Identify styles for the line |
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Term
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Definition
Trim the edge of the fabric just in front of the needle
Rolled hems
Add cording and attach lace, beads, sequins and other trims/ embellishments
Finish seams and edges
Sew stretch seams
Speed up construction time
-needle, looper, spreader |
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Term
| Pre-adoption design phase |
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Definition
Design specifications
Sketch
Fabric Swatches
Trim Swatches
Fabric and trim descriptions
Garment Description
Critical Measurements
Sample
Fit standards material specifications |
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Term
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Definition
Size and fit specs
Material Specs
Detail drawing
quality specs
Market specs
Spreading specs
Cutting specs
Breakdown
Packaging Specs
Sample |
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Term
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Definition
| Mirror images from right to left |
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Term
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Definition
| Restriction of the use of a specific fabric design to one apparel firm |
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Term
| ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials |
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Definition
| Worlds largest source of voluntary standards for thousands of different types of products |
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Term
| Pre-costing/ quick costing |
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Definition
| Based on sketch, done during creative design period to determine whether a garment could be productive at the target price |
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Term
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Definition
| 20 Detailed drawings, to visualize the designs for a merchandise group |
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Definition
| Sell original designs and sketches to manufacturers |
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Term
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Definition
| Required if the line has an advertising campaign/ if it will be sold in a catalog |
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Definition
One-Way design (up and down)
When viewing the fabric w/ the warp yarns vertically, the fabric is different in structure/ appearance than when fabric is turned 180 degrees |
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Definition
| Private label for retail stores that is increasing in use |
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Definition
| Goods that can go directly from production floor to the retail sales floor |
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Definition
| Drape directly on a fitting form |
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Term
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Definition
| Method of pattern development that builds pattern shapes from specific measurements |
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Term
| MTM technology (Make to measure) |
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Definition
Garments made to an individuals size specifications
New technology that determines body size by scanning and converts size specs into patterns |
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Term
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Definition
| Collage of selected sources of fashion cultural and technological ideas |
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Term
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Definition
| a means of legally using intellectual property that belongs to someone else |
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Term
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Definition
| Personal preference, abilities, resources, and philosophy of management |
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Term
| AATCC American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists |
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Definition
Technical and scientific society of 7000 members from US and 50 other countries
Standard methods for testing dyed and chemically treated fibers and fabrics |
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Term
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Definition
| Detailed description of equipment, workstation layout, method, handling, and quality for performing each operation in a garment breakdown |
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Term
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Definition
Represent line concept and line direction
Color ways, textures and visual direction for line being developed |
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Term
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Definition
| Plan of activities required for the planning, development, and presentation of a product line within an identified time frame |
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Definition
| Sketches that visualize styling ideas and the use of fabrics |
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Definition
Services Contracted:
pattern making, cutting, screen printing, embroidery, belt making, and pleating |
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Definition
| Group of styles designed for a particular selling period |
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Definition
Specifications for the product and the government issues a contract to lowest bidder
Sale of materials/ services |
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Definition
| Line-for-line copy of a style |
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Term
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Definition
| Adaptation/ Modification of a style from another firms line |
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