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Definition
| enables it to fit wearer and achieve desired silhouette style or look. using aspects of fabric grain, underlying fabrics, etc. |
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| carefully structured and detailed. often closely fitted and made of woven farics. |
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orientation of the yarns that make up the fabric (knit fabrics do not tachinically have a grain bc one continuous yarn instead of two sets of yarn)
-appropriate grain affects aesthetic and functional quality of finished garment. (critical during cutting) |
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| lengthwise grain (warp grain) |
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Definition
runs parallel to selvages(woven edges of fabric)
-yarns held taut by loom
-strongest to withstnad tension
-stable, less apt to stretch, hang straight |
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| two sets of yarns interlaced at right angles |
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| one continuous yarn looped around itself (no technical grain) |
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| fiber web (no technical grain) |
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(fill, filling)- yarns woven over and under lenthwise yarns
90 degrees angle to warp
less strong, slight stretch
-creates softer look and provides comfort
-sometimes done to maximize fabric usage |
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| includes both lenthwise and crosswise grains b/c they follow straight yarns of the fabric |
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| any direction that is not the lengthwise or crosswise grain of a woven fabric |
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| fabric direction that occurs at a 45-degree angle to the lengthwise and crosswise grain of woven fabric; has highest degree of stretch of any fabric direction |
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| joint resulting when two or more fabric pieces are sewn together |
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| narrow width between the seam line and raw edge of the fabric |
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| thread interlocked or interloped that holds a garment together |
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| stitches applied to finish an edge or ornamental purposes *not used to join pieces |
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| control the way the garments fits the contour of the body |
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| basic block or sloper pattern |
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Definition
| basic pattern used to produce a basic fitted garment. |
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Definition
triangular fold stitched to shape the flat fabric to specific curves of the body
-located at major body contour |
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Definition
(most are) vertically at back neck or back shoulders of jackets, waistline of bodices, skirts, pants, and dresses
-horizontally at elbows and bustline of womens clothing
-can originate at seam
* point toward body bulges |
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Term
| double pointed darts (contour darts) |
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Definition
-in garments with no waistline seam and some sports coats at waist.
-look like two single pointed darts joined at wide ends to form one. |
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| narrow darts vs wide darts |
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Definition
fist small body curves
wide fit large body curbes |
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| dart equivalents or dart substitutes |
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Definition
| substitute by incorporating shape into each garment in a variety of ways. include gores/tucks, stretch fabrics, pleats, gathers, shirring, smocking |
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darts left partially or fully unstitched (just folded over)
-reduces cost, often used at waistline in womens wear |
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| dart equivalent- connects two different pieces of fabric- incorporate bust and waist in fitted womens clothing |
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not all seams are dart substitutes, many join flat fabric panels without imparting any shape
-common in close fitting garments |
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| horizontal divisions within a garment; usually small flat panels of fabric at shoulder, waist or hip (yoke seam is DE) (pants especially women) |
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| horizontal divisions within a garment; usually small flat panels of fabric at shoulder, waist or hip (yoke seam is DE) (pants especially women) |
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| vertical divisions within a garment, usually tapered panels seamed together to add shape to a garment (skirts and pants) |
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| imperceptible fullness that is incorporated on one side of a seam and stitched in place. - used to join two fabric edges of diff lenths |
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drawing together of a series of small folds of fabric
-controlled and stiched in place- provide visible fullness |
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| uses decorative stitches to hold the fabric in even, accordion-like pleats (chest area of infants/girls clothing) |
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| incorporates paralllel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment. shirring with elastic stretches and shapes garment (maybe top of tube top) |
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| sart sub by drawing longer fabric of garment to shorter length of elastic (APPLIED ELASTIC, CASTINGS, HEADER) |
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| narrow tubes, cords or strips of fabric inserted itno casings in place of or addition to elastic. pulled up and tied to shape the garment |
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| pieces of fabric set into a seam or seam intersection to provide body-conforming shape and fullness in a garment. mostly triangular or diamond shaped |
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| triangular fabric pieces set into a seam or slash, usually at hem of garment- decorative fullness |
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| stitched folds of fabric that are usually ornamental but occasionaly serve as DE. sewn the entire length of fabric either horizontal or vertical |
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decorative, unstitches or partially stitched, folds of fabric)
-fold of fabric folded back upon itself so the pleat is comprised of three layers |
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| help maintain the garments shape and/or lend it other qualities such as durability and warmth |
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| body, fashion, or shell fabric |
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| main, outer fabric from which a garment is made |
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supporting fabric used in almost all garments
-lends body, shape, and reinforcement to limited areas. |
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| nearly a replica of the garment constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside apearance |
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Definition
1. covers garments seam allowances, making inside attractive
2. makes seam finishes minimal or unneccessary
3. makes garment more comfortable to wear
4. aids the wearer in slipping the garment on and off
5. extends the life of the garment by absorbing some of the stress, strain and abraision
6. provides extra body shape and support
7. provides opacity, an advantage for garments with sher body fabrics
8. can provide extran warmthh
--garments with lining are higher quality |
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Definition
involves lining each major piece of the garment individually.- less costly
-provides body, strength, and support to garment. provides opacity, prevents seam allowances from showing through |
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| disadvantages of underlining |
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Definition
1. does not protect skin from irritation by seam
2. does not make garment more attractive on inside
3. does not make garment easy to slip on and off
4. does not prevent seam allowances from raveling |
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Definition
applied strictly for additional warmth. may incidentally add support and shape. used in cold weather clothes
*insulation |
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Definition
| incorporated into garments to achieve or maintain the desired shape ex. belts, shoulder pads |
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| refers to the distribution of visual weight, both horizontally and vertically within the garment |
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| refers to how well individual garment parts relate to the whole garment |
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| occurs when the garment possesses a feeling of directional movement, often achieved through repetiotion of some design element |
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| requires the garment to have a clear focal point |
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| defines how well all parts of the design work together thematically |
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Definition
garments outline or shape
-determined by amount and location of fullness in a garment, and methods used to control |
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Definition
results from the silhouette and other identifying characteristics of a garment or its pieces
-usually refers to the cut of its structural lines in a manner that has become recognied, accepted and named
-details added also help styles |
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| aspects that determine styles |
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Definition
1. silhouette 2. length 3. edge treatment 4. waistline
5. neckline 6. collar 7. sleeves 8. cuffs 9. pockets
10. decorative devices |
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| any band applied to the garment neckline, mainly decorative, sometimes functional- 3 basic types |
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lies flat or nearly flat against the garment all around the wearers neck
-inner edge is shaped in concave curve, matching neckline edge |
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band extending straight up from neckline edge and standing up around the neck.
-if inner edge is fairly straight, result is standing collar |
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Definition
band of fabric that rolls fully or partially around the neck
-a full roll collar rolls all the way around the neck
-partial roll rolls at back of neck and lies flat near front |
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| standard mens shirt collar |
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Definition
| mixture of two types. consists of standing collar with full-roll collar inserted and sewn into upper edge of neckband to create collar fall. |
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Definition
covering for the arm that is attached at a near armhole )OR ARMSCYE) sleeves are functional providing modesty, warmth, or protection, but are equally important for their contribtuion to style
- 3 main types, set-in, raglan, and kimono |
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Definition
banded or turned back finishes at the lower edges of sleeve and pant legs. crisp well made cuffs contribute to overall appearnace of garments quality
-most are bands of fabric applied to lower edge of sleeve that extends or lengthes sleeve as it finishes lower edge
-control fullness |
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Definition
| have opeining so the wearer can fit the cuff band over hand and then fasten it (barrel/shirt cuff, covertible cuff, french/double cuff) |
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Definition
| unbroken ring of fabric large enough to fit over the arm (turned back cuffs on sleeves and cuffed pants formed by turning back or rolling up the lower portion of sleeve or pant leg) |
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| small pouch or bag sewn onto or into a garment and used to carry small items. concealed pockets are strictly functional. nonfunctional used to complement a garments design |
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| a pleat at the hem of a skirt to give room to walk and sit; may be decorative as well |
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Definition
| an opening at the back hem of jackets, which allows the garment to expand for walking and sitting comfort |
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Definition
| a pleat at the intersection of the shoulder and the armhole that releases fullness in the front and/or back of garment |
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| repeated, evenly spaced, open knife pleates |
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Definition
| smaller at the waist and larger as they near the hem. accordion and sunburst pleats are used in skirts |
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Definition
| extremely narrow accordion pleats used in formal gowns and some ruffle trims |
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| cartridge pleats/ gauging |
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Definition
| accordion pleats drawn closed with rows of running stitches so that they resmembel bold, even gathers. |
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Definition
)pressed in pant legs are decorative feature that adds a crisp look)
-front creasees start at hem and end between crotch/waist
-back creases extened from hem to crotch |
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Definition
decorative gathered or pleated strips of fabric.
-full ruffles two/1/2 times more lenth of are to which they are gathered
-bias ruffles drape gracefulle
-made by hemming long edge of single ply fabric
-shaped ruffles are cut in a circle and straightened fro sewing to garment
-PEPLUM-shaped or gathered ruffle at waistline |
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| fabric strip that, when combined with a button, buckle or d-rings serves functional closure, as well as decorative dtail |
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| extral layer of fabric at the center of the slip for modestly; prevents silhouette of legs from showing |
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| sign of quality shaping- represent increase or decreases in the number of stictes in a knitted garment section |
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