Term
| what is the difference between swell and storm waves? |
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Definition
| storm waves are irregular with respect to T, C, and L. Once they travel for a while, they organize themselves and turn into Swell waves, which are travel in groups of the same T, C, and L |
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Term
| what are three parameters for predicting wave height? |
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Definition
three parameters for predicting waves heights are
1. Wind duration, D
2. Wind speed, U
3. size of windstorm F |
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Term
| what kind of plot helps you find wave height? |
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Definition
| a namogram finds wave height after you plug in D, U, and F (wind duration, wind speed, and size of windstorm) |
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Term
| when does wave shoaling start? |
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Definition
| wave shoaling starts when L is 1/2 d |
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Term
| what thoery is the one we get all the equations from? |
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Definition
| linear/airy wave theory is the one we get all the equations from |
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Term
| is linear/airy wave thoery ok for shallow water? |
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Definition
| linear/airy wave thoery is bad for very shallow water b/c it assumes waves are like sin waves. Stokes, solitary wave are both better |
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Term
| explain the 4 energy dissapation process that turns sea waves into swell waves |
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Definition
4 energy dissapation processes that turn sea waves into swell waves
1. angular spreading
2. contrary wind
3. viscous internal dampening
4. destructive interference |
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Term
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Definition
| the Cnoidal wave thoery is good for shallow water b/c it is more realistic than airy theory |
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