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| N.A.F.T.A. (North American Free Trade Agreement) |
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| a single North American market for goods created in Canada, mexico, and U.S. |
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1. Care labels be permanently affixed.
2. Country of origin
3. fiber ID Label (at point of sale) |
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| Wool Product Labeling Act |
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1. New Wool & virgin wool refer to fibers that haven't been processed
2. Lamb wool= 7 years of younger
3. Recycled wool- wool previously used to changed back to fiber form |
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Contains:
1. Country of Origin
2. FIber content
3. Manufacturer Identification (RN #)
4. Care for garment |
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| 1996, FTC approved American society for Testing and Materials |
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Brand Names, words, or symbols used to dentify.
R = registered trademark
TM= unregistered or state regulated |
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| Available at retailers. Calvin Klein |
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| Merchandise exclusively at that store. Represents retailer rather that a manufacturer. |
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| they are sewn into garments produced in unions shops or factories where the workers are union members. Indicates a garment is produced under fair label practices. |
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| an exclusive right to reproduce an item |
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| involves recommending a more conservative care method than the garment requires |
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| the rules of conduct that reflect the moral principles of honest, integrity and fairness. |
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Design- provides the plan
Materials- Fabric thread
Construction- method used for assembling
Finish- involves any garment wet process |
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Utility- refers to usefullness
Does it fit
comfortable
Easy to care |
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| are the performance advantages that result from physical features |
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| Physical features make it desirable |
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| French for fine sewing, high price |
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1. Introduction (Fad)
2. Growth (Fashion)
3. Maturity (basic product)
Decline (basic product) |
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| a quick fashion trend for a short period of time |
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| A timeless piece. (i.e. a little black dress) |
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| consist of the newest design concepts |
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| Runs parallel to the selvage edge |
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| Runs at a 90 degree angle tot he lengthwise grain and selvage |
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| Includes both lengthwise and crosswise grains because they follow the straight yarns of the fabric |
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| Considered directions of the fabric, not grain. 45 degree angle to the lengthwise grain and crosswise grains of fabric |
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| Controls the way a garment fits the contours of the body |
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| Found vertically at the back of the neck or back shoulders of jackets, at the waistline of bodices, skirts, and dresses and bust line of women's clothing |
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| Diagonal bust darts that originate low in the side seams directed towards the bust curve |
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Commonly called contour darts
Two single pointed darts joined at the side ends to form one continuous dart |
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Horizontal divisions within a garment
Usually small flat panels of fabrics at the shoulders, waist or midriff
Small flat panels |
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| fit the garment close to the body below the bust |
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| featured at the center back (jeans) |
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| uses decorative stitches to hold the fabric in even |
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| incorporates parallel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment |
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| applied elastic is stitched into the garment to add shape where desired |
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| two knife pleats folded away from one another |
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| a pleat at the hem of the skirt to give room to walk and sit |
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| a stitched fold of fabric that usually lies flat against the garment |
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| set into the side seam and waistline seam of the garment; they have a diagonal or curved opening edge offset from the side seam. |
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| hidden into the seam of the garment |
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| usually set into the side of the seam and waist line sean of the garment; they have a diagonal or curved opening edge offset from the side seam. |
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| pieces of fabric attached like a patch to the outside of the garment |
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| has a single lip not more than 1/2 inch wide |
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| has two lips usually no more than 1/4 inch wide also called besom pocket |
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| Uses one or more types of color removing agents to remove subtle or significant amount of color. |
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Greatly softens the cloth
Makes the garment look and feel used and comfortably broken in
In abrades the seams and edges. |
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Uses a bleaching agent to remove color through a high lightening effect
It softens pre-shrinks and completely changes the characteristics of the fabric through the loss of color in highlighted areas
Gives dramatic, light dark effect |
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| A layer of material covering part of a garment and providing contrast, decoration, or strength. |
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| A moderately stiff material, esp. buckram, typically used between two layers of fabric in collars and facings. |
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| visible on a garment, the outside of the garment |
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| used to control fullness and then release it at a desired point, such as at the bust or hips. |
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| a stitched fold of fabric that usually lies flat against the garment |
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| a seam that is straight and where the top and bottom threads cross inside the cloth. |
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| incorporates parallel rows of gathers made in the body of the garment |
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| a technique of sewing in a zipper commonly used in dresses, skirts and dress pants. This type of zipper has one row of topstitching. |
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| has two lips usually no more than 1/4 inch wide also called besom pocket |
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| can add decoration to a garment. a visible zipper |
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| shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece |
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| shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece |
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| shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece |
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| pieces of fabric attached like a patch to the outside of the garment |
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| Good for heavy fabrics, help make something look less bulky |
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| A seam with the raw edges enclosed. |
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| edge has be finished with basis tape |
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| Plain seam with pinked finish |
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| sean that has edged cut with pinking shears |
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| Use several weft yarns that flow over the warp yarn |
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| Trim close to the stitching, leaving approximately. 1/8-inch seam allowance |
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| looks like a plain seam from the right side and a small enclosed double-stitched seam on the under- neath side |
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| when you sew a larger fabric to a smaller fabric |
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| an opening in a garment that is closed by a zipper |
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| hidden into the seam of the garment |
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| used to produce the effect of parallel diagonal ribs. |
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| A standard pocket on a coat, usually self-fabric, with a flap over pocket opening. |
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| usually set into the side of the seam and waist line sean of the garment; they have a diagonal or curved opening edge offset from the side seam. |
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| a pleat at the hem of the skirt to give room to walk and sit |
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| small flat panels of fabric |
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| applied elastic is stitched into the garment to add shape where desired |
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| Found vertically at the back of the neck or back shoulders of jackets, at the waistline of bodices, skirts, and dresses and bust line of women's clothing |
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Commonly called contour darts
Two single pointed darts joined at the side ends to form one continuous dart |
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| Refers to the amount of roominess in a garment |
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Filling yams float or pass over or under two or more warp yams in a staggered progression, very durable
EXAMPLE: Denim, gabardine, chino, herringbone |
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filling yams pass alternately over and under the warp yam
simplest & most common
more prone to wrinkling
EXAMPLE: Broadcloth, batiste, voile, muslin |
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Filling yams pass over or under several warp yarns at one time
Produces long float, which gives fabric charac. Of smooth, lustrous surface
Prone to snagging, raveling, seam slippage and abrasion. |
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| Filling Knits / weft knits |
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Yarns are sewn horizontally across the fabric
Most are knitted on circular machines that produce a tubular fabric |
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Consist of one layer of loops
EXAMPLE: jersey, rib knits, and purl knits |
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consist of two inseparable layers of loops
are heavier, stretch less, and retain their shape better than single knits
edges do not curl |
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Yarns run parallel to the length of the fabric
usually produced as flat goods
they do not run or ravel
are generally lightweight
EXAMPLE: tricot and raschel |
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| A color, red vs. blue vs. yellow |
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Lightness vs. Darkness
EXAMPLE: Light blue vs. dark blue |
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| Functional Performance of Fabric |
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Refers to its utility and durability as a component of the garment
Utility: includes the influence of shape retention, appearance retention, comfort, ease of care, and
safety
Durability: includes the influence of strength, abrasion resistance, resistance to degradation |
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| Consists of staple fibers spun into single yarns; two to six of these yarns are twisted together to make a thread |
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| Consists of a spun core at polyester or nylon wrapped with cotton or other fibers |
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Is the most common filament thread
It is clear thread make of a single filament of nylon resembling fishing line.
Very strong and abrasion resistant, however too strong for many fabrics |
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Is by far the most common ready to wear apparel
has a visible chain
Zipper remain attached when unzipped
generally used in neckline, waistline, side seam, pocket |
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| Constructed so the two sides of the zipper separate into two unattached halves when unzipped, found on coats and jackets. |
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constructed so the chain of the zipper is concealed beneath the tape when the sipper is closed
only portion visible is zipper tab |
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| stitches composed of a needle thread interlocked with a bobbin thread |
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| multithread chain stitches |
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double locked stitches formed by a needle thread passing through the fabric and interloping with
a looper thread |
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| overedge stitches and safety stitches |
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| Stitches formed, as the name implies, over the edge of the fabric encasing the edge of the fabric |
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| top and bottom covering chainstitches with interloopings appearing on both the face and back. Used to sew flat seams in which the fabric plies abut or overlap slightly and are interlocked by the stitches. |
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| Created by hand or on machines that pass a single thread through one side of the material and then the other |
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| Lack of seam smoothness that detracts from appearance of garment. |
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| detract from the smooth performance |
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| Damage that occurs when the fabric pulls away from the stitches at the seam line |
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| Unsightly result that occurs when the seam line spreads open exposing the stitches so they appear similar to teeth of grin |
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| Seam that has split apart because the stitches have broken |
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| Seam that created by superimposing fabrics plies or stacking them on top of one another with edges even and sewing them together near the edge |
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| Simple super imposed seam as a line with no visible stitches outside the garment. |
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| Seam allowances that are pressed open or bust |
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| A seam in which the operator sews the fabric plies face sides together near the edge opens out the plies and turns them back sides together to encase the seam allowances occurs only at edges where it appears as a line with no visible stitches along the edge. |
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| Seam with raw edges on both seam allowallces folded under as the seam is stitched a strong and durable seam. |
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| Seam used to create appearance of true French seam with a lower cost |
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| whole in seam closed by not stitching both seam allowances enough |
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| seam that imitates true flat felt seam also called mock felt seam |
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| overlapping seams with two or more fabric piles. |
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| Where the collar naturally rolls down |
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| Where the collar and the lapel meet |
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