Term
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Definition
| Not true acid waves, as they have pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. |
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Term
| Alkaline waves (or cold waves) |
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Definition
| Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature. |
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Term
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Definition
| Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor |
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Term
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Definition
| Active ingrediant or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
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Term
| Base cream or protective base cream |
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Definition
| Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing |
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Term
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Definition
| Poistion of the rod n relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| The position of the rod in relation to its base section, and its determind by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base. |
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Term
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Definition
| Relaxers that require the application of protection base crean to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
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Term
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Definition
| Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which all the rods within a pamel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same legth and width as the perm rod. |
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Term
| chemical for hair relaxing |
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Definition
| Rearranges the structure of curly hair into straight or smoother form. |
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Term
| chemical texture services |
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Definition
| Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanentaly alters the natural hair pattern of the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
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Term
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Definition
| Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incerdible strength and elasticity of human hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped in an angle perpendiculaar to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. |
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Term
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Definition
| Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfer atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped. |
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Term
| double-rod (piggyback) technique |
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Definition
| perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one ontop of the other. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventuional hood-type hair dryer. |
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Term
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Definition
| Absorbant papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
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Term
| Glyceryl monothioglycolate |
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Definition
| main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotion |
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Term
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Definition
| Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees to its base section and the rod is positioned half of its base section |
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Term
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Definition
| weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between iopposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools. |
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Term
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Definition
| the neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers thepH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuilds disulfide bonds. |
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Term
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Definition
| Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. |
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Term
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Definition
| Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during the processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate |
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Term
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Definition
| innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen. |
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Term
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Definition
| relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. |
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Term
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Definition
| conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing. |
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Term
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Definition
| base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section. |
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Term
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Definition
| base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base sections. |
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Term
| Peptide bonds or end bonds |
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Definition
| chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains. |
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Term
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Definition
| Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide chains. |
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Term
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Definition
| Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-forms when the pH returns to normal. |
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Term
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Definition
| disulfide bonds, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap that is similr to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped. |
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Term
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Definition
| Tool about 10 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. these soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape. |
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Term
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Definition
| combintation of a thio relaxers and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser. |
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Term
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Definition
| Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpandicular to the length of the rod. which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket. |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. |
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Term
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Definition
| colorless liquid with a strong unpleasent odor; provide the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions. |
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Term
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Definition
| Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. |
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Term
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Definition
| Use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher consentration and a higher pH (above 10). |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm ises cysteamine or mercaptamine instead on ATG as the primary reducing agent. |
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Term
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Definition
| Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as a firm a curl as alkaline waves. |
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Term
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Definition
| Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. |
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Term
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Definition
| perm wrap in which one paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope |
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Term
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Definition
| Perm wrap similar to actual technique or bricklaying; base sections are oddset from each other row by row. |
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Term
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Definition
| creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
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