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| Variation in depth of the ocean floor. |
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| A vast, nearly horizontal plain of the ocean floor at least 4.5km below the ocean floor. |
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| Relatively narrow and deep valleys that cut into continental shelves and slopes. |
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| Volcanoes that lie below sea level. |
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| Ocean waters flows and circulates at velocities of up to several kilometers an hour in fairly well-defined streams called currents. |
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| Twice daily rise and fall of the sea level. |
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| gravitational attraction of the sun and the moon, and in part to centrifugal force produced by the revolution of the Earth-Moon system around its center mass. |
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| The horizontal difference between two adjacent wave troughs or two adjacent crests. |
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| The height of a wave from crest to trough. |
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| The depth, approximately equal in distance to half a wavelength in a body of water, beneath which there is no wave movement. |
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| Waves bend as they approach the shore. |
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| Causes swimmers floating in the water just offshore to gradually drift in a direction parallel to the beach. |
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| Any large system of rotating surface ocean currents, particularly those involved with large wind movements. |
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| Carries the beach sediment at an angle down the beach. |
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| Where the coastline indents landward, long shore drift stretches beaches out into open water. Some sandspits grow across the opening of a bay to form a baymouth bar. |
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| The scouring action of waves piles sand up in a narrow ridge away from the shore. |
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| In regions with an abundant sand supply, offshore bars rise above the mean high-water level to become a barrier island. |
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| The lower area between a barrier island and the mainland forms a quiet-water lagoon, a body of shallow seawater separated from the open ocean. |
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| regions of mud and silt exposed or nearly exposed at low tide but totally submerged at high tide, develop in regions protected from large wave action. |
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| The combined effects of shattering, wedging and abrading, together called wave erosion, gradually undercut a cliff face and make a wave cut notch. |
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| Wave erosion cuts away at a rocky coat, so that the cliff gradually makes its way inland. Such cliff retreat eventually leaves behind a wave cut bench, or platform, which becomes visible at low tide. |
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| Flooded glacial cut valleys. |
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| A point of land, usually high and often with a sheer drop, that extends out into a body of water. |
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| Any relatively flat, horizontal, or gently inclined geomorphic of marine origin. |
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| When the depth is ½ the wavelength, surf forms. The bottom of the surf has friction, which slows the bottom of the wave. The top of the wave however keeps moving fast creating surf. |
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| What happens in longshore transport of sediment? |
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Definition
| Sediment moves up the beach at an angle and reenters the ocean going straight down the beach. |
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