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Ch 18. Chemical Texture Services_Permanent Waving
Milady's Standard Cosmetology
136
Cosmetology
Professional
11/23/2010
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Term
Definition / Question
 Definition
Term / Answer
Term
______________ hair requires a stronger solution, higher pH, and a more thorough saturation.
 Definition
Resistant
Term
_______________ (one of the end paper technique) provides most control over the hair ends and keep the hair evenly distributed over the entire length of the rod.
 Definition
Double flat wrap
Term
________________ hair usually curlier at the scalp, and straighter at the ends.
 Definition
Over-processed
Term
________________ hair usually straighter at the scalp, and curlier at the ends.
 Definition
Under-processed
Term
_________________ help you determine how your client's hair will react to a perm.
 Definition
Prelimiary test curl
Term
_________________ is determined by the strength of the permanent wave solution.
 Definition
The amount of processing
Term
____________________ can be applied and beneficial to the very damaged hair and dried under a warm hair dryer without cover for 5 min or more prior to neutralization.
 Definition
Acid liquid protein conditioner
Term
________________________ is essential to proper processing in all permanent waves, especially on resistant hair.
 Definition
Thorough saturation of the hair
Term
A perm wrap is essentially a wet set on _________ instead of rollers.
 Definition
Perm rods
Term
A permanent wave breaks _______________ bonds.
 Definition
Disulfide
Term
A properly processed permanent wave should break & rebuild aprox _______% of the hair’s disulfide bonds.
 Definition
50
Term
A wet set breaks _____________ bonds.
 Definition
Hydrogen
Term
Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods.
 Definition
End Paper (End Wrap)
Term
Absorbs heat from its surroundings.
Activated by outside heat source usually conventional hood-type hair dryer.
 Definition
Endothermic Waves
Term
Active Ingredient of Alkaline Wave?
 Definition
Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
Term
Always / Never:
Adjust any rods that have become loose or drifted out of alignment prior to applying the neutralizer.
 Definition
Always
Term
Always / Never:
Apply pressure to the rods while rinsing out the solution
 Definition
Never
Term
Always / Never:
Firmly or aggressively blot the hair.
 Definition
Never
Term
Always / Never:
Rinse hair with hot water.
 Definition
Never
Term
Always / Never:
smell the hair after the recommended time has elapsed.
 Definition
Always
Term
Always / Never:
Use a gentle stream of water.
 Definition
Always
Term
Always check for excess moisture, especially at the _______ of the neck where water tends to accumulate, prior to neutralizing the hair.
 Definition
nape
Term
Always check the _______ area to ensure that you are thoroughly rinsing the bottom rods.
 Definition
nape
Term
Always rinse the __________ areas first.
 Definition
most fragile
Term
An acid liquid protein conditioner can be applied and beneficial to the _______________ hair and dried under a warm hair dryer without cover for 5 min or more prior to neutralization.
 Definition
very damaged
Term
An acid liquid protein conditioner can be applied and beneficial to the very damaged hair and dried under a warm hair dryer (with? Or without?) cover for 5 min or more prior to neutralization.
 Definition
without
Term
Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head.
 Definition
Base direction
Term
Base placement is determined by the ________ at which the hair is wrapped.
 Definition
angle
Term
Basic perm wrap is also called _____________.
 Definition
straight set wrap
Term
Checmial change caused by what?
 Definition
Permanent waving solution and the neutralizer
Term
Create heat through activator.
Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solutions and speeds up the processing.
3 Components: Permanent waving solution, Activator, Neutralizer.
Permanent waving solution (contains Thio) + Activator (contains Oxidant, usually hydrogen peroxide) = Rapid release of heat & Increase the solution’s temperature.
 Definition
Exthermic Waves
Term
Directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
 Definition
Base direction
Term
Does Ammonia-free mean damage-free?
 Definition
No
Term
Does processing more means more curl?
 Definition
No
Term
Double-rod technique is especially effective on ________ hair.
 Definition
long
Term
Endothermic waves are activated by ____________.
 Definition
outside heat source
Term
If the client wants a perm, but does not wish the entire head of hair to be curled, what perm should you do?
 Definition
partial perm
Term
If the hair is over-processed, further processing will make it ____________.
 Definition
straighter
Term
If the hair is under-processed, processing it more will make it _________.
 Definition
curlier
Term
If the waving lotion is in the client’s eyes, what should you do?
 Definition
Rinse thoroughly with cool water.
Term
In double-rod technique, place the first rod __________________.
 Definition
in middle of strand
Term
In permanent waving, the shape of rod and the wrapping method determines what?
 Definition
The shape and type of curl
Term
In permanent waving, the size of rod determines what?
 Definition
Size of the curl
Term
In permanent waving, what determines the shape and type of curl?
 Definition
The shape of the rod and the wrapping method
Term
In permanent waving, what determines the size of the curl?
 Definition
Size of the rod
Term
In spiral perm technique, how many panel has to be parted?
 Definition
4
Term
In the basic perm wrap, all base sections are __________.
a) vertical b) horizontal c) diagonal
 Definition
b) horizontal
Term
In the basic perm, how many panel has to be divided?
 Definition
9
Term
In the bricklay perm wrap, base section are ________ from each other row by row.
 Definition
offset
Term
In the curvature perm, how should you section out all the curvature panels over the entire head?
 Definition
alternate from side to side
Term
In the double-rod technique, using more rods increases ___________________ in the finished perm.
 Definition
the amount of curl
Term
In weave technique, part out one base section the same size as ___ rods.
 Definition
2
Term
List 3 types of perm wave that require the heat to process.
 Definition
True-acid, Low-pH, Endothermic
Term
Most common neutralizer is ________________.
 Definition
Hydrogen Peroxide
Term
Most common reducing agent.
Colorless liquid, strong, unpleasant odor
 Definition
Thioglycolic Acid
Term
Most of the acid waves in today’s salon have pH 7.8~8.2
No heat needed. Room temperature processing.
More quickly, firmer curl than true acid waves.
 Definition
Acid Balanced Waves
Term
Most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ______ min.
 Definition
5 ~ 10
Term
Neutraliztion rebuild the ______________ bonds by removing extra hydrogen.
 Definition
Disulfide
Term
Neutraliztion rebuild the disulfied bonds by removing extra ________.
 Definition
hydrogen
Term
On-base placement is wrap the hair _______ degree beyond perpendicular to its base section.
 Definition
45
Term
Over-processed hair usually ________ at the scalp, and __________ at the ends.
 Definition
curlier, straighter
Term
Over-processed hair usually curlier at the _______, and straighter at the _________.
 Definition
scalp, ends
Term
Oxidizing agent in the activator of exthermic waves ususally _________________.
 Definition
Hydrogen Peroxide
Term
Partial Perm:
To protect the unrolled hair, apply a __________________ to the unrolled section before applying the waving lotion.
 Definition
protective barrier crem
Term
Partial Perm:
Use a __________ rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section.
 Definition
larger
Term
Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
 Definition
Bookend wrap
Term
Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped.
 Definition
Double flat wrap
Term
Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
 Definition
Single flat wrap
Term
Physical change caused by what?
 Definition
Wrapping the hair on the perm rod
Term
Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at the which the hair is wrapped.
 Definition
Base placement / Base control
Term
Resistant har requier a __________ solution, _______ pH, and more thorough saturation.
 Definition
stronger, higher
Term
Rinse the hair with ______ water.
 Definition
warm / tepid
Term
Sectioning the panels in advance create a road map that provides _____________and give ___________to the wrapping pattern.
 Definition
direction, continuity
Term
Size of each base section is usually the ___________ and _________ of the rod being used.
 Definition
length, width
Term
Spiral perm wrap will be benefit to ________ and ___________ hair.
 Definition
longer, thicker
Term
Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping.
 Definition
Base sections
Term
The ________ reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen
 Definition
reduction
Term
The _________________ is also called piggyback wrap.
 Definition
double-rod technique
Term
The double-rod technique is also called _______________.
 Definition
piggyback wrap
Term
The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of ___________
 Definition
Hydrogen
Term
The strength of permanent wave is based on the concentration of _____________.
 Definition
its reducing agent
Term
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined by ___________.
 Definition
the concentration of thio
Term
To avoid scalp irritation and unwanted lightening hair color, rinse perm solution from the hair for ___________, and _______ with towels.
 Definition
at least 5 min, blot
Term
To create least amount of volume and begin the curl pattern fartheast away from the scalp, which base placement should be used?
 Definition
Off-base placement
Term
To eliminates excess end paper, which end paper technique supposed to use?
 Definition
Bookend wrap
Term
To minimize stress and tension on the hair, which base placement should be used?
 Definition
Half off-base placement
Term
To prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair, what kind wrapping technique should be used?
 Definition
Bricklay perm wrap
Term
Types of perm wave:
Developed in 1941.
Process at room temperature without addition of heat.
pH 9.0 ~ 9.6
 Definition
Alkaline Wave / Cold Wave
Term
Types of Rods:
_________ are equal in diameter along their entire length.
 Definition
Straight rods
Term
Types of Rods:
__________ produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand.
 Definition
Straight rods
Term
Types of Rods:
Concave rods produce a _________ curl in the center, and ________ , _________curl on the either side of the strand.
 Definition
tighter, looser, larger
Term
Types of Rods:
Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the _______, and looser, larger curl on the either side of the strand.
 Definition
Center
Term
Types of Rods:
Soft Bender Rods are usually about _____ " long with a uniform diameter along the entire length.
 Definition
12
Term
Types of Rods:
Soft Bender Rods have stiff wire inside that permits them to be _______ into almost any shape.
 Definition
Bent
Term
Types of Rods:
Straight rods are ________ in diameter along their entire length.
 Definition
Equal
Term
Types of Rods:
Straight rods produce a __________________ along the entire width of the strand.
 Definition
Uniform curl
Term
Types Rods:
______________ have smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
 Definition
Concave rods
Term
Under-processed hair usually __________ at the scalp, and _______ at the ends.
 Definition
straighter, curlier
Term
Under-processed hair usually straighter at the _____, and curlier at the _____.
 Definition
scalp, ends
Term
Use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites instead of ATG.
Very weak & Not firm curl.
Body waves or alternative waves.
 Definition
Low-pH Waves
Term
Uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent.
Cysteamine or Mercaptamine are used.
Still thio-compounds.
 Definition
Thio-free Wave
Term
Uses an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so there is very little odor associated with their use.
(Ex) AMP (AminoMethylPropanol) / MEA(MonoEthanolAmine)
 Definition
Ammonia-free Wave
Term
Weave technique is very effective for blending between perm rod with _______________.
 Definition
opposite base directions
Term
What are the examples of active ingredient that has been used instead of ammonia in the Ammonia-free wave?
 Definition
AminoMethylPropanol (AMP) / MonoEthanolAmine (MEA)
Term
What are the examples of active ingredient that has been used instead of thio in the Thio-free wave?
 Definition
Cysteamine / Mercaptamine
Term
What are the two important functions of permanent waving neutralization?
 Definition
Deactivate the solution & Rebuild the disulfide bonds
Term
What are the two step of permanent process?
 Definition
Phsycal Change & Chemical Change
Term
What is pH of Acid balanced waves?
 Definition
7.8 ~ 8.2
Term
What is pH of Alkaline / Cold waves?
 Definition
9.0 ~ 9.6
Term
What is pH of Ammonia-free waves?
 Definition
7.0 ~ 9.6
Term
What is pH of Exthermic waves?
 Definition
9.0 ~ 9.6
Term
What is pH of Low-pH waves?
 Definition
6.5 ~ 7.0
Term
What is pH of Thio-free waves?
 Definition
7.0 ~ 9.6
Term
What is pH of True acid waves?
 Definition
4.5 ~ 7.0
Term
What is the concentrations of neturalizer?
 Definition
5 vol ~ 10 vol
Term
What is the major difference between a wet set and permanent wave?
 Definition
The type of side bonds that are broken
Term
What is the most common type of perm rod?
 Definition
Concave rods
Term
What kind of chemical service should we do for adding wave or curl to the hair?
 Definition
Permanent waving
Term
What kind of chemical service should we do for loosening overly curly hair? (turning tight curls into loose curls or wave)
 Definition
Curl Re-forming
Term
What kind of chemical service should we do for removing curl, leaving it smooth and wave-free?
 Definition
Relaxing
Term
What kind of information the preliminary test curl can provide?
A) Correct processing time for the best curl development.
B) Results you can expect from the type of perm solution you have selected.
C) Curl results for the rod size and wrapping technique you are planning to use.
D) All of the above.
 Definition
D) all of the above
Term
What kind of wrapping technique the following explained?

All the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on an equal-size basis. All base sections are horizontal, with same length and width as the perm rod.

a) basic perm wrap b) curvature perm wrap c) bricklay perm wrap d) weave technique
 Definition
a) basic perm wrap
Term
What kind of wrapping technique the following explained?

Base sections are offset from each other row by row, to prevent noticeable splits, and to blend the flow of the hair.

a) basic perm wrap b) curvature perm wrap c) bricklay perm wrap d) weave technique
 Definition
c) bricklay perm wrap
Term
What kind of wrapping technique the following explained?

The movement curves within sectioned-out panels.
This wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature area.

a) basic perm wrap b) curvature perm wrap c) bricklay perm wrap d) weave technique
 Definition
b) curvature perm wrap
Term
What kind of wrapping technique the following explained?

Use zigzag partings to divide base areas. It can be used to create a smooth transition from the rolled area into the unrolled area of a partical perm.

a) basic perm wrap b) curvature perm wrap c) bricklay perm wrap d) weave technique
 Definition
d) weave technique
Term
What should you do to avoid unwanted lightening of hair color or scap irritation?
 Definition
Rinse perm solution from the hair for at least 5 min. and blot with towels.
Term
When we perform neutralizing, hair color can be _________, and scalp can be ______________.
 Definition
lightend, irritated
Term
When we perform neutralizing, what chemical reaction is involved?
 Definition
oxidation
Term
Which base placement does wrap the hair at 45⁰ below the center of the base section?
 Definition
Off-base placement
Term
Which base placement does wrap the hair at a 90⁰ angle or straight out from the center of the section?
 Definition
Half off-base placement
Term
Which base placement will create greater volume at the scalp area?
 Definition
On-base placement
Term
Wrapping Technique:
Wrapped at an angle along the length of the rod.
Produces a uniform curl from the scalp to the ends.
 Definition
Spiral Perm Wrap
Term
Wrapping Technique:
Wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers and produces a tighter curl at the ends, larger curl at the scalp.
 Definition
Croquignole Perm Wrap
Term
Wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth -> __________ amount of stress to the hair.
 Definition
least
Term
다음중 perm 을 해서는 안되는 경우가 아닌것은?
A) Prev. allergic reaction experienced clients
B) Skin abrasions of scalp or scalp disease.
C) Prev. in-shop haircolored clients.
D)Excessively Damaged or show signs of breakage.
E) Prev. treated with hydroxide relaxers.
 Definition
C) Prev. in-shop haircolored clients.
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