Term
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Definition
| Emerges from the neck seam line to lie flat against the garment, rising only slightly above the neck edge. Examples are peter pan and sailor collars. Flat collars occur most often in untailored garments, such as blouses and in children's wear. |
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Term
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Definition
| First stands up from the neck edge, then falls down to rest on the garment. The line at which the collar begins to fall is called the roll line. The positioning of this line determines the extent of the stand, and thus the fall of the collar. |
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Term
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Definition
| Extends above the neck seam line of the garment either as a narrow, single-width band or as a wider, double width band that will fold back down onto itself. |
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Term
| What part does interfacing play in the construction of collars? |
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Definition
| It helps to define and support the collar shape. |
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Term
| What issue does interfacing take care of if you are using a lightweight fabric? |
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Definition
| It helps to define and support the collar shape. |
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Term
| What is the most familiar form of the flat collar? |
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Definition
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Term
| How are rolled collars differentiated from flat collars? |
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Definition
| By a roll line that breaks the collar into stand and fall areas. |
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Term
| What is the key difference in kimono sleeves versus the sleeves listed above? |
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Definition
| It is cut as an extension of the main bodice piece. |
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Term
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Definition
| A cuff cut double the width of a standard cuff so it can fold back onto itself. |
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Term
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Definition
| One end projects from the placket edge |
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Term
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Definition
| Sewn with its ends aligned to the overlap and overlap edges of the shirt placket |
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Term
| What is an upper collar piece? |
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Definition
| The piece that is visible as you wear it |
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Term
| What is an under collar piece? |
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Definition
| The piece that is trimmed so that the upper collar rolls to the back on the edge |
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Term
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Definition
| Made by stitching strips or patches of fabric to the buttonhole location in any of several ways |
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Term
| Machine-worked buttonholes |
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Definition
| Consist of the two parallel rows of zigzag stitches, and two ends finished with a bar tack |
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Term
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Definition
| Made by edging a cut in the fabric with hand buttonhole stitches |
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Term
| Describe the placement of horizontal buttonholes |
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Definition
| They are placed to extend 1/8" in beyond the button placement line which is the center fold line |
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Term
| Describe the placement of vertical buttonholes |
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Definition
| Placed directly on the button placement line and the top of the buttonhole 1/8" above the mark for a center button |
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Term
| How is a horizontal buttonhole placement established? |
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Definition
| Place pin at end nearest the finished garment edge |
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Term
| How is a vertical buttonhole placement established? |
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Definition
| Place below the top of the buttonhole opening. Carefully life buttonhole over pin and re-fasten the pin securely at proper location |
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Term
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Definition
| A button that has a little "neck" or shank with a hole in it |
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Term
| How do you make a button shank with thread? |
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Definition
| Take a few stitches where the button is placed, place button, and bring thread through hole and fabric. |
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Term
| If you sew on buttons by machine, how do you establish a button shank? |
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Definition
| Sew over the top of the "spacer" when button is sewn on, remove spacer, and wrap the threads under the button around the threads used to sew on the button |
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Term
| What are the three parts of a rolled collar? |
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Definition
| The stand, roll line, and fall |
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Term
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Definition
| The part that holds the collar up |
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Term
| What is the roll line of a collar? |
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Definition
| The part where the collar folds |
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Term
| What is the fall of a collar? |
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Definition
| The upper part of the collar that shows. |
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Term
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Definition
| Lengthwise grain & strongest grain; arrows on pattern should be placed on this grain unless otherwise instructed; selvage runs parallel to lengthwise grain |
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Term
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Definition
| Crosswise grain, perpendicular to selvage, has slight stretch, and good to go around body |
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Term
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Definition
| Angle across warp and weft; true bias is 45 degrees (most stretch) |
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Term
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Definition
| Direction of yarns in fabric; what direction the arrows are on pattern indicates placing along this |
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Term
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Definition
| Look at suggested fabrics and look at picture- is it hanging softly or stiffly away from the body? |
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Term
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Definition
| Pre-shrink by washing if garment is to be washed and fold fabric with selvages on top of each other |
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Term
| Characteristics of the right side of the fabric |
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Definition
| Greater softness, deeper color, smoother, and selvage is smoother |
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Term
| When laying out a pattern... |
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Definition
| cut paper patter, locate and pin grainline markings, and pin around pieces; pieces must go in same direction if using napped fabric |
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Term
| What are the small arrows on patterns? |
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Definition
| Indicate direction of stitching |
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Term
| What are the horizontal double lines on a pattern? |
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Definition
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Term
| What symbol indicates the pattern piece needs to be placed on the fold? |
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Definition
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Term
| How are center front and center back indicated on a pattern? |
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Definition
| A seam line, solid line, or fold line |
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Term
| What do triangles/diamonds indicate on a pattern? |
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Definition
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Term
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Definition
| Firm round for pressing and shaping curved seams, darts, collars, and lapels |
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Term
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Definition
| Long narrow roll for pressing seams |
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Term
| Clapper or pounding block |
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Definition
| Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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Term
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Definition
| set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed |
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Term
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Definition
| set stitches, press seams before intersecting, use plenty of pressure and steam, and interfacing is pressed not ironed |
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Term
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Definition
| Long narrow roll for pressing seams |
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Term
| Clapper or pounding block |
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Definition
| Wooden board to pound edges and seams flat on woolens and heavy fabrics and leather |
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Term
| Where is staystitching done? |
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Definition
| on off-grain edges to prevent stretching like in shoulder seams, body curves, necklines, and armholes; sewn 1/8" from seam line |
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Term
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Definition
| eliminates bulk; longest cut side is worn on outside of garment |
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Term
| Interfacing requirements (4) |
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Definition
| time, temperature, moisture and pressure |
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Term
| Purpose of interfacing (3) |
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Definition
| to add stiffness, body, and firmness to garment edges and pieces |
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Term
| Types of interfacing and interfacing insertion |
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Definition
| woven, nonwoven, knit, and weft knit; sew-in and fusible |
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Term
| What to look for in thread |
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Definition
| slightly darker than main background of fabric, polyester, and Gutermann brand |
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Term
| Sewing machine needle sizes |
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Definition
| 9 & 10 for finer fabrics, 12 & 14 for cotton and medium fabrics, and 16 & 18 for denim |
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Term
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Definition
| 5/8" on patterns and raw edges match up except when unlike curves come together |
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Term
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Definition
| serger, zig zag, turn and stitched, and stitch and pink |
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Term
| Specialty seams and descriptions |
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Definition
French: self-enclosed, good for sheer fabrics & unlined jackets
Flat felled: self enclosed, good for sports clothing and children's wear
Fla |
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Term
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Definition
| cutout, mark, staystitch, darts, center back seam, zipper, side seams, waistband, h em, and hook and eye |
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Term
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Definition
| cutout, mark, interfacing, staystitch, darts, shoulder seams, collar, ease stitching on sleeves, continuos lap, attach sleeves, side seams, cuffs, hem, and buttons |
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Term
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Definition
| torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist |
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Term
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Definition
| torso and upper body wider than hips; weight around waist |
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Term
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Definition
| Torso and upper body smaller than hips, waist definition |
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Term
| Inverted triangle body type |
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Definition
| Torso and upper body wider than hips; little waist definition |
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Term
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Definition
| Torso and upper body are the same width as hips; little waist definition |
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Term
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Definition
| Torso and hips are same width; waist definition |
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Term
| Example of functional design |
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Definition
| Side hip pockets to store items |
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Term
| Examples of structural design |
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Definition
| Construction lines, garment edges, creases, folds, pleats, darts, etc. |
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Term
| Examples of decorative design |
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Definition
| Construction details, fabric patterns and colors, trims, non-functional details |
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