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| Ronald Readan elected president |
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| economic times made affluence (riches, wealth) sociably acceptable |
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| wedding of Price Charles and Lady Diana Spencer |
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| Lady Diana Spencer 1980's |
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| she was a major influence on mainstream fashion for 16 years |
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Japanese Designers show their designs at prêt-a-porter shows in Paris |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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| no line, form or recognizable silhouette |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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| loose, black, irregular garments |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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| inaugurated the reign of black |
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Commes des Garcons – Rei Kawakubo 1983 - Japanese Designers |
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Radically revised contemporary perception of fit & proportion |
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| “Conspicuous Consumption” |
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| “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.” |
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| “Whoever has the most toys, wins.” |
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Status Symbols
Spending money was acceptable & pleasurable |
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Interest in Fashion Designers reached a New high |
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| “vulgarized” the Chanel look |
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| Ate for amusement rather than substance –trend foods |
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| During the era of miniskirts |
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, a couture designer seems as obsolete as `A blacksmith |
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| Role of Haute Couture – made somewhat of a comeback |
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| Movement toward increasing mechanization |
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Dread locks and hairstyles - Rastafarian, reggae musicians |
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| Furs fell into disrespect |
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African-Americans continue to have strong influence - more Black fashion models |
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Make-up more elaborate
Accessories became more important – Total Look |
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| success cults, power suit, power tie |
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| double breasted jacket with front-pleated trousers |
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| menswear look, big shoulders |
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| expensive silk - in red or yellow |
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| Power suit designers in 1980 |
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| Margaret Thatcher, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani |
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| Focus on body consciousness – second skin fashions |
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| “Want to know what comes between me and my Calvin's? Nothing.” – Brooke Shields |
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| Aerobics was the fashionable sport |
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Exercise clothing worn on the streets – jogging suits, Stirrup pants, Lycra tights in lieu of pants, tank tops, Running shoes, headbands |
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| young upwardly mobile processionals "dress for success" |
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"investment dressing" display of conspicuous consumption Louis Vuitton "LV" Guccio Gucci "GG" |
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Old money wanted to distinguish Themselves from yuppies |
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- polo shirts & Button down oxfords |
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| deck shoes, espadrilles, topsiders |
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| hot pink & lime green combinations |
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| Fair Isle Sweater - different color looks like a shaw by the shoulders |
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| papagallo bad - round with wooden handles |
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| personalized needle point bags handle and closure on top, hard |
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| Cult Dressing 1980 Vivienne Westwood |
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| Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV |
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Gave a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress |
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Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress |
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Cult Culture 1980 Dawn of MTV a push to new romantic look - based on glamorous, eclectic, fancy dress Annie Lennox, Boy George |
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Gay Culture defined a cutting edge in Music & fashion |
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| Media influence : Soaps - 1980 |
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“Dallas” and “Dynasty” high-powered women |
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| Media Influence : Men - 1980 |
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“Miami Vice” - impeccably casual - injected new life into men’s fashion |
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| Media Influence : MTV- 1980 |
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1985 – Council of Fashion Designers of America Award |
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| Media Influence : MTV- 1980 |
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East and West Germany reunited War with Iraq |
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| Government of Soviet Union collapses |
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| Bill Clinton elected president |
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NAFTA – North American Free Trade Agreement Terrorist attack on World Trade Center |
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First retail sale of custom-fitted jeans made by computer imaging 3 million computers connected to the Internet |
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| Bombing of federal building in Oklahoma City |
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10 million computers connected to Internet British Designers chosen for houses of Dior & Givenchy |
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| Bill Clinton’s Scandal - Monica |
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| Slinky bias dresses from the 30s |
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| Print dresses from the 40s as worn in “Evita” |
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| Beatnik look from the 50s |
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| Mini dresses and boots from the 60s |
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| Bell bottomed pants from the 70s |
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| Platform shoes from the 70s |
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| Wide shoulders from the 80s |
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| Pouff balloon skirt look from the 80s |
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| Kate Mass in John Galliano 1994 |
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| clean & sophisticated looking |
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| Punk & hippie style combined |
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| Inspired by music, the street and youth culture |
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| Take a retro-floral dress and accessorize it with Doc Marten boots, long underwear and a flannel checked shirt |
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| Baby-doll Look - Baby Spice/ Brittney Spears, longer dress with white knee highs and black mary janes/ t- straps |
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| Hussein Chalayan, 1999-2000 |
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| Spice Girls - military look/ suit |
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Simplicity is the soul of modern elegance. “ |
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Dresser to the world’s wealthiest and glamorous |
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Fetish and homoerotic fashions |
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| “Bumsters” – low-waisted trousers |
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| Designer labels & licensing |
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“Living on the edge” - boots, ugly big pants |
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| reinterpretation of 1930s Vionnet |
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| Tumultuous (turbulent) times have an influence on Fashion |
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| Fashion becomes a global phenomenon |
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| Film and Music Celebrities |
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| a fusion of previous styles, global and ethnic clothing, numerous music-based subcultures, especially indie pop |
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| Recycled vintage style from 40s, 50s, 60s, 80s |
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| Britney Spears popularized 2000 |
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| low-rise jeans, Crop tops, lower back tattoos, navel piercing and the whale tail |
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| Fashion becomes less grungy and more excessive |
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| Wearing of thongs becoming less popular |
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| Baggy jeans craze and skinny jeans are in! |
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| 1980 Revival – large chunky jewelry, leggings, and/or miniskirts |
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| in 2003 but falls out of favor in 2005 |
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Bohemian Look made popular by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Lindsay Lohan |
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made popular by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Lindsay Lohan |
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| Owning a cell phone, MP3 Players |
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| Generation Y supplants Gen X |
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| takes on task of doing 3-D scan of 10,000 men and women to replace old tables of 1940s |
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| tries to launch a new division to attract 35 & older |
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| 48.8% of women wear size 12 or larger |
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| Tom Ford leaves Gucci & YSL to design under own name |
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| Alexander McQueen leaves Givenchy to open own salon |
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| Nicolas Ghesquire ---> Balenciaga |
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| Viktor & Rolf known for exaggerated recognizable forms |
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| Stella McCartney becomes chief designer for Chloe |
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| Michael Kors – carpool couture – “Project Runway” |
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| Zac Posen (27) one of younger designers to show in New York |
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| leaves Gucci & YSL to design under own name |
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| leaves Givenchy to open own salon |
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| Nicolas Ghesquire becomes 2000 |
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| known for exaggerated recognizable forms |
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| becomes chief designer for Chloe |
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| – carpool couture – “Project Runway” |
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| one of younger designers to show in New York |
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| Worst Fashion Trends 2000 |
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| 1. Crocs2. Juicy Track suits “butt pants”3. Ponchos4. Ugg boots5. Livestrong bracelets6. Popped Collars7. Von Dutch (Trucker) Hats8. Low Rise Jeans |
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| Worst Fashion Trends 2000 |
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9. Thigh High Boots 10. Ripped Skinny Jeans 11. Gladiator Sandals 12. Ed Hardy Shirts 13. Harem Pants 14. Iconic Nerd Glasses 15. Leggings worn as pants |
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| Born in 1938 Hamburg, Germany |
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| At the age on 14 left for paris, France to study informally to become a fashion designer |
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| 1954 won a prize for International Wool Secretariat for a coat be designed |
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| was an apprentice for Pierre Balmain |
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| Worked for Chloe from 1959-1978 |
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| Started Fendi in 1965 working on furs; in 1969 launched the house's first RTW fur collection |
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| Created Fendi's double F logo |
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| 1977 launched Fendi's TRW lines for both men & women |
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| 1978 began designing haute couture for the House of Chanel |
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| 1983 With the help if Gilles Du Four added a Chanel TRW garments |
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| kept the cardigans and suits, but reinvented it with a more dramatic look -- Chanel RTW |
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| 1984 started his own clothing line |
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| in 2005 sold the name of his brand to Tommy Hilfiger, but maintained full design involvement |
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| Member of the Chambre Syndicale Du Pret- A- Porter |
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| Is an avid photographer, and ofter shoots his own press photos |
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| personal trademarks; long ponytail, powdered- white hair, and sunglasses |
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| Continues to be creative director for Chanel, Fendi, and his Karl label |
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| boen July 11th in Piacenza Italy |
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| studied medicine at the University of Bologna for 2 years |
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| left school for a military obligation 1957 |
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| Worked for La Rinascente a famous department store in Italy as a window-dresser & later an assistant designer |
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| did freelancing for multiple manufactures up to 10 at a time |
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| partnered with Galeotti & started his name brand in 1974 |
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| favors colors such as blue, black, white, shades or grey, and beige |
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| revolutionized fashion with the unstructured jacket for men & women |
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| fitted Richard Gere in American Gigolo, making his clothes will desired in AMerica |
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| has dressed nearly everyone in Hollywood |
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| Designed suits for Christian Bales (bruce wayne) as bat man along with tom cruise for mission impossible |
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| worth 5 billion & growing |
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| has multiple sub brands help appeal to all demographics |
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| The legion of Honours for lifetime achievements |
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| Guggenheim museum exhibit |
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| 1st to ban models with a BMI under 18 due to death from anorexia |
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| Designes outfits for the 2006 italian Olympians |
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| Designed suits for the soccer team Chelsea as well as England's football team |
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| born in New York City 1963 - 49 years long |
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| grandma taught him to knit |
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| attended design school & worked at popular New York boutique- Charivari |
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| won the Perry Ellis Gold Thimble Award |
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| Design student of the year at Parsons |
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| youngest to win The Counsil of Fashion of America's Perry Ellis Award or New Fashion Talent |
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| designed first collection for Reuben Thomas, Inc. |
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| joined perry ellis duffey & created grunge line & got fired |
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| is an artistic director for Louis Vuitton- created LV Graffiti bag |
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| known for ruffle dresses & skirts- often have and Edwardian influence - pulled from the 80s as well |
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| know for mixing patterns & styles |
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| Provocative advertising- "Oh, Lola" with Dakota Fanning |
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| celebrity friend promote him |
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| recently said he did not want other celebrities at his shows |
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| Glossop Derbyshire England |
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| Mother= cotton weaver father shoe maker |
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| 1962 marries Derek Westwood, soon after her first son & went back to teaching |
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| Inspiration was drawn from England’s depressed economic, social political conditions & of course from newfound need to rebel |
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| opened "let it rock" with Mclaren |
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| first collection "pirates in the Spring of 1971" |
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| MINI- Crini Spring/summer 1985 |
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| British designer of the year |
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| married multiple times 2nd time to Andreas Kronthaler |
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| "Anglomania" 10" platform heel that takes down a super model |
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| Wedding gown for Bradshaw |
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| 10" platform heel that takes down a super model |
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| Woodstock festival in New York State |
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| Four students killed at Kent State University |
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| Midi/miniskirt controversy |
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| beginning of platform shoes style |
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| 2 huge antiwar matches in Washington D.C. |
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| Richard Nixon elected president for a second term |
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| revival of 1930s & 1940s styles |
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| wrap dress becomes popular |
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| Nixon resigns, General Ford becomes president |
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| economy in worst recession in 40 years |
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| Giorgio Armani open womenswear salon |
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| punk clothing begins to be seen |
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| Us space shuttle makes first test flight |
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| The "Annie Hall" look becomes popular, as does fashion from Saturday Night Fever |
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| 100, mark in support of ERA |
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| the "Dress for Success" look takes off |
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| 1970s Stagflation Economy |
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| a combination of high interest rates, high unemployment, slow growth, and decreasing productivity |
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| american family life changed as traditional family structures eroded from a rising divorce rate and declining birth rate |
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| mexican americans began to use this term to express their distinctive identity as separate for a more general U.S. culture |
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| more women entering the business, medicine, and engineering fields in college |
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| gasoline shortages and number of ecological crises |
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| Clean Air Act and a Water Quality Improvement Act |
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| fight for better health care and living centers better suited to the needs or the aging |
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| "Nader's Raiders" - safety issues - platform shoes |
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| Niel Armstron - 1 step/man on the moon |
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| 1970 environmental movement lead to earth art |
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| a style that challenged ideas about time, size, space, and was |
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| created by artist such as Robert Smithson |
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| began in 1970 combining clothing & various types of fiber art: weaving, painting, embroidery, and dyeing |
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| The Mary Tyler Moore shoe 1970 |
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| single 30ish independent career women |
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| Saturday Night Live- stay at home and watch TV night |
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| sex appeal - feminist complained |
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| 1970 nostalgia, avoided political or cultural commentary |
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| films making black males look like drug users, pimps, and gangsters |
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| clothing fads that evolved into hip-hop styles of the 1980s |
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| Woodstock & break up of the Beatles |
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| 1970 Rock & Roll Woodstock & break up of the Beatles lead to |
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| nudity, drugs, and sexual freedom |
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| 1970 Saturday Night Fever |
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| Disco dress - John Travolta -- floral knits 3 piece white suits clubs spandex ----anti disco |
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| created fashion styles for the band |
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| torn shirts and jackets decorated with heavy chains and safety pins - London designers popular |
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| specialized in one classification of goods EX (coats or evening dresses) |
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| mens increase in interest in fashion led to many designers to enter the menswear business |
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| laster beam cutting of pattern pieces began in menswear, spread to women's & children's |
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| Computer aided pattern making debuted in |
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| subculture trends influenced fashion |
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| 1970 clothing was more easy to wear dresses & coordinated layering ] due to |
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| effects of the Vietnam War |
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| provided fashion alternative to the masculine style of Lauren |
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| designed by Italian Tai and Rosita Missoni, were expensive but also considered works of art |
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| complex knitwear in distinctive patterns and colors were made in limited number and have also been included in museum exhibits |
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| over all winner pants for women |
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| image marketing more than design, putting money into ads for the first time, placing of logos and initials on the outside of clothing |
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| 1970 coordinate tailored pieces |
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| frequently menswear inspired, and fluid, close to the body dresses |
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| pieces that worked for many occasions |
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| full skirts or a hem ruffle |
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| short version became standard |
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| worn with shirt wide loose tie or bow low heels and neutral color |
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| standard for all occasions - casual wear, work, or evening wear |
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| year of sweater and dressing - casual |
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| created irregular horizontal lines |
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| ultra short petticoat substitute- for wear under short pants and skirts blurred into the short-lived fashion for teddy pants or tap pants |
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| Teddy pants/ Tap pants 1970 |
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| underpants evocative of 1930 buttoned styles with wide legs |
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| jewelry designer - horseshoe shaped belt buckle |
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| 1970 safari suit for men & women - knit |
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| inspired by african american dress- civil rights movement |
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